Mr & Mrs Smith

Charming Italian chef Francesco Vitagliano cooks up a fine selection of traditional rustic dishes at elegant Chaweng restaurant Bellini (+66 (0)77 413 831), at Soi Colibri, Chaweng South, 46/24-26, Moo 3, Tambon Bo Phut. Pizzas, pastas and seafood are all rendered with flair. At Chaweng South 43/04-5, cool, casual Betelnut (+66 (0)77 230 222) is run by an American chef who likes to cook a collision of Thai and Californian cuisine. Eat at Sense (+66 (0) 77 414 242) for an exquisite menu of authentic, healthy Thai food. Starfish & Coffee (+66 (0)77 427 201) – not the most obvious bedfellows – but this quirky café at 51/7, Moo 1, in Tambon Bo Phut, makes them seem the most natural of marriages, recreating Mediterranean chic within its brick walls. Nosh aside, this inimitable joint offers massages and boasts an attached boutique.

The clubs in Chaweng Beach are renowned throughout Thailand, although not always in a good way. Check out Mexico-inspired Guapa (+66 (0)897 242843) in Soi Colibri for jazzy riffs, latin anthems, quality cocktails, and an innovative tapas menu from Betelnut's chef.

May–June The Koh Samui Regatta draws the world’s top yachtsmen for a week of passionate sailing (www.samuiregatta.com). July The Avis Samui Tennis Open brings keen racketsmiths to the courts. August The Fisherman’s Village Festival is the focus of five days of festivity, with live performances by Thai bands in the spirit of Woodstock.