Mr & Mrs Smith

The Stagg Inn at Titley near Kington (+44 (0)1544 230221; www.thestagg.co.uk) is a 40-minute drive just over the border in Herefordshire but is worth it for the real ales and local cider. It is also the first pub in the UK to gain a Michelin star. The Felin Fach Griffin (+44 (0)1874 620111), a former farmhouse due south of Builth Wells on the A470, serves earthy, flavoursome modern cuisine among contemporary wood, tiles and beams. In the direction of England, via Hay, the Bull's Head at Craswall (+44 (0)1981 510616) is a real pub serving up great food and local ales and ciders to locals and walkers alike. In Hay itself, the Old Black Lion on Lion Street (+44 (0)1497 820841) is a popular, part-ancient pub/restaurant. If you're heading back to the Midlands or northwest England, the Radnorshire Arms (+44 (0)1544 267406) in Presteigne is a priest-holey old property, great for gastro lunch, afternoon tea or morning coffee in this charming border town.

Elan Valley Dams is a stunning part of the world to drive or walk around. You can ride on a Harley Davidson (+44 (0)870 411 3541; www.ridersedge.co.uk) at the Royal Welsh Showground just three miles away. The farmers' market at Brecon (20 minutes away) is held every second Saturday of the month 10h–14h, where you can buy great local produce. Hay-on-Wye is a small village specialising in all types of books. The Cambrian and Black Mountains are within reach too.