Mr & Mrs Smith

Río Hermoso

San Martin de los Andes, Argentina

A river runs through it at luxury lodge Rio Hermoso hotel, just outside San Martin de los Andes, a Patagonian playground of fir-studded mountains, startled stags and bottomless, bottle-blue lakes. Interiors of richly-hued local stones and timbers, striking tribal artefacts and all-white, super-size soft furnishings don’t even try to compete with the environmental pole dance outside.

Need to know

• Rooms Seven, including six suites.
• Rates Double rooms from $272.00, excluding tax at 21 per cent.
  Prices have been converted from the hotel's local currency ($272), via XE.com, using today's exchange rate.
• More details Rates include breakfast and tax.
• Facilities Library of DVDs and books, gardens and free WiFi. In rooms, Organ & Co bath products.
• Check-out 11am, but flexible for 25 per cent of the daily rate. Earliest check-in, 3pm.
• Children This hotel is better suited to couples - leave the children at home!
• Eco-friendly Rio Hermoso sources most food from the nearby Melquina township and outlying region, and recycles almost obsessively, even sending unused produce to a local orphanage.
• Also The common areas are subtly perfumed with mood-enhancing eucalypt and sandlewood scents; the property also stocks local merino wool designers, Von and Dungen.

Food and drink at Río Hermoso

• Hotel restaurant

  Buenos Aires-trained chef Julian brings a touch of French flair to the menu. Meals are taken in one half of the expansive, glass-walled living room, the white linen tablecloths and red- and orange-striped cushioned chairs dappled by the light off the water. Afternoon tea involves test tubes full of loose leaf teas – go traditional with ceylons and darjeelings or off the map with black toffee, puer or lemon flower. Breakfast is a feast of brownies, breads and cereals, with eggs on demand; make sure you try the dangerously creamy huevos revueltos.

• Dress code Designer fleece in winter; plaid shirts and comfy Merrells all year round.
• Top table When it’s warm enough, ask for a table and umbrella out in the garden by the river.
• Last orders Everyone is rosy-cheeked and reflective by 10pm, so don’t expect to eat too late.
• Room service Apart from the dead-of-night munchies, most things can be brought to the room at any time.
• Hotel bar

  The housegirls whip up a potent caipirinha behind the little elevated bar in the middle of the big entertaining room downstairs. Bar stools encourage languid, pidgin-Spanish conversations; or choose one of the boardgames and settle in for thrashing.

Río Hermoso Ruta 63 km 67, Pje. Río Hermoso, Parque Nacional Lanín, Salta, 8370