Mr & Mrs Smith

Palais Soleiman (+212 (0)524 378962) on Dar Layardi and Palais Gharnata (+212 (0)544 389615) on Derb El Arsa both provide traditional Moroccan cuisine in beautiful surroundings. Bô & Zin (+212 (0)524 388012) is a Thai-style salon a little out of the way on the Ourika road, but worth the trek for excellent Southeast Asian dishes and a very trendy atmosphere. Le Fondouk (+212 (0)544 378190) in the heart of the Medina serves Moroccan dishes with a few diversions into Mediterranean cuisine along the way. Book ahead at weekends. Dar Moha (+212 (0)524 386400) is another trad Maroc option opposite the walls of Dar el Bacha, set in what was formerly the house of Pierre Balmain. Try to get a table in the walled garden by the pool; reservations essential. Dar Zellij (+212 (0)524 382627) in the Sidi Ben Slimane quarter is an intimate, relaxed Moroccan restaurant in a 17th-century riad.

There’s no better spot for a mid-souk stop-off than Café Arabe (www.cafearabe.com). Ask for a rooftop table and admire the mountain views.
Dar Cherifa (+212 (0)524 426463) in Mouassine, is a cross between a café, an art gallery and a library – great for browsing over books on Marrakech over mint tea. There are regular poetry readings in the evening.