Mr & Mrs Smith

Osteria Da Carla, at San Marco 1535 (+39 041 523 785) has a fantastic location just behind the Piazza San Marco. Leave the madding crowd behind and head to this little spot filled with locals and the inevitable (lucky) stray tourist. Sample goodies from the small menu, or eat little tapas-style tartines (such as toast with melted cheese and walnuts) at the bar. Pane Vino e San Daniele, at Calle dei Botteri, San Polo 1544 (+39 041 084 46) belongs to a chain of three enoteche which serve food. The eatery boasts cheerful service, local clientele and rustic charm, with straw-seated chairs and a small country menu. This is a good option for meals on the run – try the carbonara, thin crust pizzas and tiramisu. La Columbina at Cannaregio 1828–1831 (+39 041 522 2616) is more Pugliese than Venetian. The menu is small but marvellous in quality, not to mention quantity. Standout dishes include giant cheese-filled ravioli in a blanket of rich, tomato sauce. The fried seafood plate is superb – a gargantuan mix of battered vegetables, squid, prawns, lobster and fish. Antiche Carampane at San Polo 1911 (+39 041 524 0165) is almost impossible to find, but its succulent seafood is well worth the trek. The little paper cones filled with the most divine fried water shrimp set the tone for the evening. Be sure to book ahead.

Palazzo Barbarigo places you perfecly for exploring the lively San Polo district. The Rialto (the thriving commercial centre and source of news described by Shakespeare's Merchant of Venice) is only a short stroll away. Beyond that, Venice’s sights are all easy to reach, including the Guggenheim and Palazzo Grassi.