Mr & Mrs Smith

Martin Bosley's, upstairs at the Royal Port Nicholson Yacht Club at 103 Oriental Parade, is an inspiring port of call for fresh, local, simple seasonal fare, especially seafood and fish (+64 (0)4 920 8302; www.martin-bosley.com). The wine list is mainly New Zealand-sourced, and there's an eclectic mix of locally produced craft beers. Open for lunch Monday to Friday, and dinner Tuesday to Sunday, with airy, light modern interiors and harbour views. Also offering great views of the harbour is The White House Restaurant (+64 (0)4 385 8555; www.whr.co.nz), upstairs at 232 Oriental Parade, which serves a chic mix of local produce, including oysters and delicious fish dishes, and is open for dinner Monday to Saturday, and lunch on Fridays in winter. For Mediterranean fare in a big, lavish interior, inspired by Moorish and Balinese decor, try Osteria del Toro, at 60 Tory Street (+64 (0)4 381 2299). If you're in the mood for South-East Asian cuisine, head for Monsoon Poon, at 12 Blair Street, where chefs from across the region serve up tasty treats with shared tables and dishes (+64 (0)4 803 3555; www.monsoonpoon.co.nz).

Part bar, part gastro-pub, The Tasting Room is a great place to come for a boutique Monteith's beer, with a wild food-inspired menu and comfy leather, wood and stone interiors. It's at 2 Courtenay Place (+64 (0)4 384 1159; www.thetastingroom.co.nz). Matterhorn (+64 (0)4 384 3359; www.matterhorn.co.nz) at 106 Cuba Street, is popular as a cafe and lunch spot by day, but comes into its own at night with its cocktail selection, Djs and sleek modern space.

Alice (+64 (0)4 385 2242; www.whiterabbit.co.nz), down Forresters Lane off Tory Street, is where Lewis Carroll's beloved classic <i>Alice in Wonderland</i> comes to life. Try the Mad Hatter's Tea Party, which comes in a dainty china tea pot with cups for two. Open from 8am to 2pm Wednesday and Thursday, and til 5pm on Friday and Saturday.

Ohtel's savvy seaside location by the marina yet just on the edge of Wellington Harbour, means you're near all the action without the noise and hassle of the city. If you fancy a walk, you've got Oriental Bay beach, Waitangi Park and Mount Victoria Lookout at your doorstep. You're also adjacent to the entertainment district with a clutch of the city's best theatres at your disposal: the Downstage, St James, Opera House and Circa Theatres are all just streets away, offering a wide mix of arts, music and dance, as well as art deco movie house the Embassy Theatre and edgy clubs and bars. Cultural sites are well represented too, with both the much loved Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tangarewa and the Museum of Wellington City & Sea, which explores local maritime and Maori heritage, a short walk away. Further afield, there's the cable car up to the Botanic Gardens for great views and greenery, or architecture buffs can check out Parliament House and the iconic, adjacent Beehive, a Modernist building designed by Sir Basil Spence. Fitness addicts should jog across Oriental Parade to the Freyberg Pool & Fitness Centre, where a heated outdoor pool, spa and sauna awaits.

Ohtel can also hook you up with local tours, sightseeing and leisure activities, including the gym and pool, and can arrange to have bills charged back to you at the hotel. Options include wine, food and helicopter tours, or if you need a <i>Lord of the Rings</i> fix, Ohtel can also point you in the way of a guided trip around the movies' Wellington-area Middle Earth locations. Its other recommendations include the Karori Wildlife Sanctuary, about two kilometres west of the city, home to native bird species and wetlands, where walking tracks abound.