Mr & Mrs Smith

In the city centre, earmark Redwood on St Stephens Street (+44 (0)131 225 8342) for some tastebud-tingling Californian cuisine (booking recommended). For seasonal seafront dining in Leith, Tom Kitchin’s The Kitchin is on the water at Commercial Quay (+44 (0)131 555 1755). Try Paul Kitchings’s five-course tasting menu at 21212 on Royal Terrace (0845 222 1212) for unusual flavour combinations. Perfect for breakfast, lunch or dinner, the Roseleaf at 23–24 Sandport Place (+44 (0)131 476 5268) is a relaxed, slightly eccentric (mismatched cutlery and an equally varied crowd) bar/café with delicious eats – try cullen skink or homemade game pie.

Iso-Bar on Bernard Street (+44 (0)131 467 8904) in Leith is a small, smart café by day and a standing-room-only bar at night. Port O’ Leith on Constitution Street (+44 (0)131 554 3568) is a little local bar where you might spot Irvine Welsh amongst the nautical knick-knacks.

The Fourth Floor Brasserie in Harvey Nichols on St Andrew Square (+44 (0)131 524 8350) is the essential coffee-with-a-view stop-off for the Edinburgh urbanite.

Saunter down to Leith to gawp admiringly at the reinvented waterfront, then clamber up Carlton Hill (10 minutes from the Leith Walk roundabout) for scintillating cityscapes. Pick up the obligatory haggis from Crombies (+44 (0)131 557 0111), the best butcher in town, and, for a basketful of Italian groceries, head to Valvona & Crolla (+44 (0)131 556 6066) at the top of Leith Walk.

25 January Burns Night, when the populace tucks into haggis, neeps and tatties, toasting the Scottish Bard (www.rabbie-burns.com). March Ceilidh Culture Festival honours Scottish music and song (www.ceilidhculture.co.uk). April Science Festival disguises learning with lots of ‘ah-haa’ moments (www.sciencefestival.co.uk). On April 30, Beltane Fire is the all-night festival on Calton Hill. June Leith Festival, for open houses, concerts and exhibitions (www.leithfestival.com). July Edinburgh Jazz & Blues Festival (www.edinburghjazzfestival.co.uk). August The Edinburgh Festival colonises the town, along with the Fringe (comedy, plays aplenty), Book and International Film Festivals (www.edinburgh-festivals.com). 31 August–1 September Edinburgh Mela: Asian festival in Pilrig Park. 29 December–1 January Edinburgh’s legendary four-day New Year’s celebrations, better known as Hogmanay (www.edinburghshogmanay.org).