Mr & Mrs Smith

Visit the Borghese Museum and Gallery, at 5 Piazzale del Museo Borghese for a pretty villa packed with Berninis, Titians and Caravaggios (www.galleriaborghese.it). Climb the Spanish Steps for great views over the Centro Storico from the top, then descend onto Via Condotti to flex your Amex on the fashion and finery of Rome’s boutiques. On Via Veneto near Piazza Barberina, the church of Santa Maria della Concezione is decorated with the bones of 4,000 monks, its Capuchin crypt a tourist favourite.

Tucked behind the Trevi Fountain, Al Moro, at 13 vicolo delle Bollette, is a traditional trattoria worth tracking down – try the spaghetti carbonara (+39 06 678 3495). Nino, at 11 via Borgognona (+39 06 679 5676), is lauded by locals for its hearty Tuscan fare. Dine on tortelloni in brodo or the house speciality, cannelloni, at white linened tables in a dark-wood panelled dining room. The fact that La Rosetta, at 8 via della Rosetta, has been around for more than 40 years, is testament to its fabulous ways with fresh fish and shellfish (+39 06 686 1002).

Antico Caffè Greco, at 84 via Condotti (+39 06 679 1700), is one of the Italian capital’s most hallowed haunts for a shot of espresso right by the Piazza di Spagna. Head to Babington’s Tea Room on the Piazza di Spagna for a Ritz-style high tea, with toasted crumpets, assorted sandwiches, pastries and cakes (+39 06 678 6027). Adriana is a boutique-meets-café on Via del Babuino, where you can browse for his ’n’ hers accessories while you linger over caffè lungho (+39 06 322 7486).