Mr & Mrs Smith

Sonnac-sur-l'Hers is a tiny place, so gourmets are best taking the trip to Limoux. Mirepoix, or Carcassonne, for restaurant dining. 12th-century Mirepoix is laden with birstros serving local specialities such as duck confit and cassoulet, and the Relais Royale hotel (+33 (0)5 61 60 19 19) on rue Maréchasl Clauzel offers particularly scrumptious French inventions. In Limoux, you can sample the world's first sparkling wine, Blanquette de Limoux at the Hotel de Moderne et Pigeon (+33 (0)4 68 31 00 25) on place du Général Leclerc, which also does divine south-eastern French cuisine in what was once a Carmelite monastery. Michelin-starred Le Parc  Franck Putelat  in Carcassone (+33 (0)4 68 71 80 80) is an ever-reliable lunch spot. At Domaine Gayda (+33 (0)4 68 31 64 14), near Limoux, you can hire your own hut and have a barbecue for you in the middle of a vineyard.

The mediaeval city of Carcassonne is about 50 minutes away and a day exploring its fortified walls and pointed towers can be eye-opening. Also mediaeval, but much smaller in scale, the beautiful village of Camon is just 10 minutes from Sonnac-sur-l-Hers, and its Celtic neighbour, Mirepoix, is well worth an afternoon wander. An English couple own the vineyard at Domaine Begude (www.domainebegude.com), which produces some fine whites and rosés. Tastings can be arranged. Will and Tilly can help you arrange white water rafting, canoeing, canyoning – even sky-diving– in the nearby area, and there are two freshwater lakes less than 10 minutes' walks away that are great wild-swimming spots.