Mr & Mrs Smith

La Rotonde on Place du Général de Gaulle (+33 0)4 42 91 61 70; www.larotonde-aix.com) is flamboyantly decorated with chandeliers, velvet-covered chairs and silk lampshades, and opens from breakfast to after-dinner digestif. For a chance to spot a film or fashion mover and shaker, head to Antoine Côté Cour at 19 cours Mirabeau (+33 (0)4 42 93 12 51). Le Passage at 10 rue Villars (+33 (0)4 42 37 09 00; www.le-passage.fr) is an old sweet factory spread across three floors, with a different cuisine on each one. There’s also wine tasting, a cooking school and live music to look out for.

Visit La Bastide de Cours on Cours Mirabeau (+33 (0)4 42 26 00 51) for a cocktail in one of the impeccably cool private rooms.

Try Le Grillon at 49 cours Mirabeau (+33 (0)4 42 27 58 81) for people-watching and afternoon tea. Brasserie des Deux Garçons on the same street (+33 (0)4 42 26 00 51) has a listed interior and specialises in seafood.

Let the local spring waters soothe ailments and aches with a hydrotherapy treatment at the Sextius Thermal Baths (www.thermes-sextius.com). The aquatic centre, built on the site of the original Roman one, offers hydro-massage baths, jet massages and a range of cures, including thermal mud treatments. Pick up Provençal sweetmeats such as lavender-flavoured calissons, candied fruits and honey nougat from Confiserie Entrecasteaux on Rue d'Entrecasteaux (+33 (0)4 42 27 15 02). Keep an eye out for exhibitions at the Musée Granet (www.museegranet-aixenprovence.fr).