Local restaurants
It may be a bit rough around the edges, but don’t let that put you off – Naughty Nura's Warung on Jalan Raya Sanggingan in Ubud town is the best barbecue in Ubud. Residents converge here for homey, cheap and cheerful fare such as hearty pork ribs (+62 (0)361 977 547). Nobody knows in advance what they’ll be eating at Mozaic (on the same street) but rest assured, nobody ever comes away disappointed. Chef Salans’ modern French tasting menu is an ever-changing revelation and the wine list is similarly inspired (+62 (0)361 975 768).
Worth getting out of bed for
If Ubud is Bali’s cultural heart, then the gangs (alleys) are its veins and art is its lifeblood. You can lose a day just wandering around the town, pootling between art galleries and craftsmen’s workshops. Bali’s growing generation of female painters exhibit at the Seniwati Gallery (+62 (0)361 975 485), which you can stroll around for free.
Diary
September–October The Ubud Writers & Readers Festival has become one of the largest events of its kind in Southeast Asia (www.ubudwritersfestival.com).
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Smith extra at Kayumanis Ubud
10 per cent discount on spa treatments and 15 per cent off all food and drink; members staying more than three nights receive a free water flow treatment; those staying four nights get a three-course lunch and an hour-long 'Body Pressure' massage
From the Guestbook…
This place was really amazing. We had already booked a nice one-bed villa and were completely shocked to discover we had been upgraded to a two-bedroom villa with a gorgeous infini...
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