Mr & Mrs Smith

There are a number of generic local cafes and food stalls in Asni and Imlil but you won't find anything more refined than honest fuel-stops up in the mountains.

The Toubkal Lodge allows guests of the Kasbah to stay overnight up the mountain without camping or staying with locals (though that can be a terrific if not conventionally romantic experience). A chain of lodges is planned, all built in the architectural style of the surrounding villages: this is the first, in the village of Id-Issa. With underfloor heating, three ensuite rooms, and spectacular views from the terrace and the lounge, which has a wood-burning stove and music facilities, this is a very comfortable way to enjoy the Atlas Mountains. The usual thing is to trek to the lodge and trek out, but you can also arrange mountain biking or riding trips there. There is a dirt road if you're not into the activity side of heading for the hills. To book the whole lodge costs €550 a night half board, or €200 per room. A full day's trekking to get there or back again, including a Berber team with a registered guide, and cook/muleteer to make your picnic lunch, is €70 a person. A 4x4 transfer costs €120 for up to six people.