Mr & Mrs Smith

Close by, in the eponymous square, L’Osteria di Santa Marina is a locally beloved joint with a penchant for delicate seafood and a spectacular tasting menu (+39 041 528 5239; closed Sundays and Mondays). Closer still – next door, in fact – Alle Testiere serves excellent fish dishes to just nine tables, so booking is vital (+39 041 522 7220). For a low-key lunch, Osteria Da Carla has a fantastic location just behind the Piazza San Marco (+39 041 523 7855). Try anything from the short menu, or eat little tapas-style tartines (such as toast with melted cheese and walnuts) at the bar. If you fancy an authentic, no-frills trattoria experience, try Trattoria Alla Madonna at Calle della Madonna, 594 San Polo (+39 041 522 3824): from San Marco, cross the Rialto bridge and take a hard left – three minutes down the waterfront (past all the tourist traps), you’ll see Calle della Madonna on your right, with the restaurants yellow sign marking the spot. Order the seafood risotto (but don’t expect to find any seafood in it) and for a secondo, order any grilled fish. It's a great little slice of Venetian life (if a little rough around the edges). For a rambunctious and rustic evening of great pasta and better wine, head to La Mascareta (+39 041 523 0744), a largely untouristy taste of authentic Venetian nightlife, just a few moments from the hotel. Feel free to confuse it with Al Mascaron nearby, another low-key local fave (+39 041 522 5995).

 I Qs’ suites have views of the Palazzo Querini Stampalia, whose 16th-century exterior gives way to a striking and celebrated modern interior by 1960s architect Carlo Scarpa. In the art gallery upstairs, you’ll find vedutista cityscapes, paintings by Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and other members of the Venetian school, as well as drawings by Titian and Tintoretto and a selection of 19th-century furniture. The café’s not bad, either.