Mr & Mrs Smith

Enoteca Pinchiorri on Via Ghibellina (+39 055 242 777) has two Michelin stars to its name and a creative menu of traditional Tuscan dishes. The wine list is as outstanding as the food, and the courtyard setting is perfection. Elegant dress and a reservation are essential. Don Chisciotte on Via Ridolfi (+39 055 475430) prepares simple yet refined dishes in its open kitchen and has specialities including baked pork, and tagliatelle with lemon herbs. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Fuor d'Acqua on Via Pisana (+39 055 222299) is a great seafood restaurant, with deliciously fresh dishes including black squid ink pasta with calamari. La Giostra on Borgo Pinti (+39 055 241341) is owned by Prince Dimitri Kunz d'Asburgo Lorena who ensures a lively and convivial atmosphere. The very good wines are complemented by rich and expertly prepared dishes such as spianata (thin slices of beef served with fresh rosemary and sage), and carbonara di tartufo, a spaghetti with eggs and white truffles.

I fratellini on Via dei Cimatori off the shopping street of Via dei Calzaiuoli, is a tiny antico vinaio, or traditional wine bar, dating back to 1875.