Mr & Mrs Smith

We have quite the trip planned. Not the usual Mr & Mrs Smith weekend away: but a whopping 600km holiday spanning Spain and France. Jealous? Wait until you get a real flavour of our Spanish sojourn. The amuse bouche to this travel banquet? A spell in Barcelona at the Hotel Pulitzer. After landing from New York, my wife and I head straight to the Pulitzer in our rented Mini Cooper Cabriolet – our spin down Carrer de Bergara certainly whets our appetite for adventure.

Parisian-style Hotel Pulitzer is located on a quiet side street juxtaposed with the busy Cataluña Square off La Rambla. Any post-transit hunch in my shoulders relaxes the moment we enter Pulitzer's calming, open and airy reception: perhaps it’s the clean lines and peaceful ambience, or maybe it’s the artiness. Floors of rich mahogany support leather couches, mid-century chairs, ottomans and natural plants – it’s all utterly modern but not intimidatingly contemporary.

Welcomed by the friendly Amanda at the front desk, and hearing that our room is not ready so early in the morning, we collapse in the comfortable lounge. Striking splashes of red and white and Rothko-esque pieces adorning every wall make this bar area buzz with creativity. I order water (sin gas, if you’d like the details) and for Mrs Smith: a combination of homemade chocolate and coconut gelato (a dose of food porn to keep your interest piqued). Sinking into oversized white leather sofas, we feel immediately at home. What a great way to begin these American Smiths' 10 days in Europe...

Our serotonin levels soon get another boost. Having booked a superior double, the treat of a suite – room 516 – is excellent news. Another hit of happy hormones comes with a step past our large wooden door and thanks to the sight of a four-poster bed dressed with fresh white linens. In front is a large modern desk with connections and outlets that make sense, even to Americans. To the left of the bed is an Arne Jacobson-style egg chair. But most beguiling are the huge sliding glass doors that  lead to a big potted-plant-studded terrace. Two large awnings shade us from that midday Spanish sun at the touch of a button. An outdoor shower is there, meanwhile, to promise exhibitionists an extra thrill. A couple of inviting chaise longues and a big square teak table with four chairs indicate that more reclining is likely to be on the cards – and this suits us just fine.

One of the other true pleasures of this particular suite is the indulgent closet space. There are four large hanging wardrobes; the fact that my wife did not have to request additional hangers was certainly a first. The next wow for this pair? The bathroom – care of a super-sized shower and Madagascar flooring and wood panelling. A separate bath, uncharacteristically roomy for Spain, and dedicated speakers piping soothing music makes it like having our own spa. But enough about how the hotel looks – our next encounter proves that it’s more than just a pretty place.

Ever professional, patient and helpful, the front staff and their recommendations are outstanding. While I studied Spanish for a decade, my lack of practice in recent years, and the specificity of Catalan Spanish, has me a little challenged. However, the staff of the Pulitzer make me feel comfortable with my less-than-perfect speak and dialect, and I even get the occasional congratulation on decent conjugation and my attempts at the lazy ‘ch’ that those Castellans utter so sexily.

In summer, this hotel buzzes more than ever – and we’re not just talking about those giant insects that hum their way through the city in hot weather. We'e referring to the rooftop bar, with its oversized rustic wicker furniture, iron daybeds and hundreds of verdant potted plant. Pulitzer's terrace plays host to the city’s cocktail-quaffing beautiful people. But it’s not just a spot for night owls – for us, breakfast at the Pulitzer is a highlight. There's a feeling of dining with nature, while at the same time experiencing something fully contemporary. The restaurant, Visit, is located in a spacious room that opens onto a courtyard where the clear-panelled ceiling has retractable shades. As for the spread it includes that famous ibérico ham, eggs, yoghurts, cheeses, freshly squeezed pear, peach and orange juices. My top tip? The wholewheat mini baguette – one of seven different types of bread.

Now that I’ve done my job describing the look and the feel of the place, let me mention Pulitzer’s location also hits just the right spot. It’s ideally situated for a walk to Passeig de Gràcia, the Madison Avenue of Barcelona, as well as all the must-see sites – Gaudì’s magnificent Sagrada Familia, La Pedrera and Parque Güell and Casa Batlló. Between the hotel and Castle Montjuïc to the south, is also one of the most delicious and stimulating markets that we have visited. It is here at La Boqueria that we discover another best-kept secret: Pinocchio. At lunchtime this unassuming tapas bar at the head of La Boqueria is in fact given some love by the world-renowned chef of El Bulli. An extraordinary meal of gambas (prawns), mejillón (mussels), navajas (razor clams) and lobster are of course accompanied by small mountains of bread with Spanish olive oil. If you’re not salivating reading this then I haven’t done my job.

After gorging on the many tantalising sights and tastes of this exciting Spanish city, we finally brace ourselves to continue our journey north. As we begin prising ourselves from our terrace, a frond sways with the wind, and reflects the sun in a way that I’m sure is nature’s way of beckoning us to come back again soon. To be honest, if I hadn’t the lure of driving our Mini up the Costa Brava towards sun-drenched S'Agaró, I might not be able to leave this very special find in the midst of bustling Barcelona. That’s the pull of Pulitzer.