Mr & Mrs Smith

Having fully explored what lies around your boudoir (the stylish bar, the tempting restaurant and the pristine gym), admire New Town’s Georgian façades, and investigate Princes Street’s boutiques. Balance retail with culture by taking a trip to the castle, and then get deliciously lost in the Old Town’s tangle of cobbled streets. A walk to the waterfront will yield some enticing eateries. Of course, if you’re here during the August festival season, you’ll be spoiled for choice. You may be able to admire the Princes Street Gardens’ Ross Fountain without blushing, but when it debuted in 1872, many an eyelid was set a-batting by the bevy of (stone) buttocks. The blustering dean of the nearby St John’s branded the fountain ‘grossly indecent and disgusting’. The perfect spot for a picnic, then.

Ondine Restaurant at 2 George IV Bridge (+44 (0)131 226 1888; www.ondinerestaurant.co.uk), is named after a mythological water spirit, with a menu that champions succulent seafood. Edinburgh’s longest-reigning emporium of ocean fare, however, is Creelers in Hunter Square (+44 (0)131 220 4447), which serves fish flavoured in the owner’s smokehouse on Arran. With its comfy leather sofas, chic chandeliers and beer-battered haddock on the menu, The Villager (+44 (0)131 226 2718) lounge bar and gastropub is a great laid-back option for lunch, dinner or a quick pint. Maison Bleue on Victoria Street (+44 (0)131 226 1900) serves a tasty French bistro menu and is a great place for a casual lunch. Taste the best of Scottish produce at The Witchery, and choose from traditional treats such as hot smoked salmon with leeks and hollandaise, or Angus beef fillet with smoked garlic broth. The restaurant is housed in a 16th-century building at the top of the Royal Mile (+44 (0)131 225 5613; www.thewitchery.com).

99 Hanover Street (+44 (0)131 225 8200) serves up cocktails to remember, mixed by equally tempting bar staff.

25 January Burns Night, when the populace tucks into haggis, neeps and tatties, toasting the Scottish Bard (www.rabbie-burns.com). March Ceilidh Culture Festival honours Scottish music and song (www.ceilidhculture.co.uk). April Science Festival disguises learning with lots of ‘ah-haa’ moments (www.sciencefestival.co.uk). On April 30, Beltane Fire is the all-night festival on Calton Hill. June Leith Festival, for open houses, concerts and exhibitions (www.leithfestival.com). The Edinburgh International Film Festival swings into town (www.edfilmfest.org.uk) July Edinburgh Jazz & Blues Festival (www.edinburghjazzfestival.co.uk). August The Edinburgh Festival colonises the town, along with the Fringe (comedy, plays aplenty) and Book Festivals (www.edinburgh-festivals.com). See our events guide Smith 52 for details, or buy the book for the full insider lowdown. 31 August–1 September Edinburgh Mela: Asian festival in Pilrig Park. 29 December–1 January Edinburgh’s legendary four-day New Year’s celebrations, better known as Hogmanay (also featured in our events guide, Smith 52; www.edinburghshogmanay.org).