Mr & Mrs Smith

Frenchman’s Cove was voted one of the world’s top five beaches and is just a five-minute drive from Geejam (the hotel’s drivers will take you there). The beach has soft white sand, shimmering waters and a river with enormous climbing trees and Tarzan swings. An entry fee keeps the hordes at bay, but Geejam’s guests get free passes. According to popular legend, the Blue Lagoon is bottomless. It’s also a brilliant place to tap into your inner child – there is an almond tree with branches trailing the lagoon’s waters, so you can climb, dive, and repeat. Take a kayak out and spy on the amazing waterfront houses. Put aside three hours to float down the Rio Grande on a 20ft bamboo river raft, admiring Port Antonio’s hidden coves and inlets on the way. Geejam can organise all of the above (and more).

In a cosy cottage clinging to the cliffs, you’ll find Dickie’s Best Kept Secret (+1 876 809 6276). Despite its tucked-away location, it’s not so secret anymore, as rumours of Dickie’s culinary skills (delicious Jamaican breakfasts and five-course lunches and dinners) have secured a loyal following. Award-winning chef Norma Shirley heads up Norma’s on the Beach at the Sea Splash resort (+1 876 957 4041) in Negril. A fusion of Caribbean, Asian and South American flavours, dishes include grilled red snapper with a garlic butter sauce, or jerk pasta with chicken, basil and sun-dried tomatoes. Anna Banana’s is a low-key but popular eatery on Fisherman’s Beach, with simple Jamaican food. Seafood features largely (try lobster, conch or shrimp) and there are nightly specials such as curried goat or stewed peas. The bar’s fresh and fruity cocktails have a potent rum kick (+1 876 715 6533).

Take your pick from the friendly beachside shacks – they’re all stocked with golden rum and hip-swaying reggae sounds.