Mr & Mrs Smith

Linea d’Ombra on Ponte de l’Umiltà (+39 (0)41 520 4720) is a great local restaurant on the canal. It is the perfect plot to head to in summer as it has a lovely terrace with views across to the Giudecca; the ambience is fantastic and the Venetian dishes also surprise. Cantinone Storico on Fondamenta Bragadin (+39 (0)41 523 9577) is good for seafood, and has an impressive wine cellar. Definitely try and get a seat by the canal in summer or by the window in winter. Ask the waiter to tell you about the specials – and then trust his recommendations.

Across the Grand Canal: For a cosy, wine-bottles-along-the-wall kind of osteria, try Ristorante Cantina Canaletto at Castello 5490 (+39 (0)41 521 2661). Trattoria alle Testiere on Calle del Mondo Novo (+39 (0)41 522 7220) specialises in fish. At Bancogiro on Campo San Giacometto (+39 (0)41 523 2061), ask for a window seat. Trattoria do Forni on Calle Specchieri (+39 (0)41 523 2148) is very classical; book dinner in the Orient Express room. Ristorante da Fiore on Calle del Scaleter (+39 (0)41 721 308) is one of the best restaurants; book a month in advance. Poste Vecie, on Rialto Pescheria (+39 (0)41 721 822), is Venice’s oldest restaurant, reached by a private bridge. Il Refolo is a great pizzeria near the Museum of Modern Art (+39 (0)41 524 0016), though not open all year round. Anice Stellato on Fondamenta della Sensa, Cannaregio (+39 (0)41 720 744) does fabulous fish with subtle spicing. Locanda Montin on Fondamenta di Borgo (+39 (0)41 522 7151) serves great antipasti on a vine-covered terrace.

Sip a bellini on the floating pontoon of Cip’s Club, watching the sun set over the water. (Hotel Cipriani operates a free boat service to and from its private landing stage.) Try Centrale on Piazza San Marco, for good tunes and great cocktails. Taverna da Baffo in Campo Sant’Agostin stays open until 02h.