Mr & Mrs Smith

The riad's dark, cocoon-like hammam is a particularly traditional one, with low-slung heated benches and a low ceiling; allow yourself to be bathed and scrubbed with savon noir, then exfoliated until your skin is softer than rose petals.

Dar Darma will arrange a guided tour of the souks and beyond, or, if you prefer exploring on your own, furnish you with a map, directions, tips, and a number to ring if you need them to send out a rescue party. You’re perfectly located for diving in and out of the souks, visitng the Musée de Marrakech, wandering down to the square or exporing the antiques shops on Dar el Bacha. 

Dar Darma's cook Maria will teach you how to make mint tea properly and will even give you a Moroccan cookery course if you ask nicely. Learn tajine-based techniques from €60.

At Dar Darma, your wish is their command, so if you want them to bring in belly dancers, arrange a day trip into the High Atlas or a chauffeur to ferry you around while you shop, just say the word.

Buzzing Moroccan fusion restaurant Le Foundouk (+212 (0)524 378190) is virtually opposite the riad; ask Dar Darma host Brahim to book you a table for two on the first-floor balcony, drink champagne cocktails and tuck into delicious soups, stews and grills with an Oriental twist.