Mr & Mrs Smith

There are plenty of activities that exploit Megève’s snowy climate in winter. Hire ski kit from Ski Concept next to the Chamois lift (+33 (0)4 50 58 91 21), and take to the area’s intermediate-friendly slopes. Head to the Place de la Résistance and admire the town views while you lap the outdoor skating rink (2pm–8pm daily). Take a horse-drawn carriage ride around town and into the valley – there’s a ‘pony rank’ in the main square. For an eagle’s-eye view of the valley, book a hot-air-balloon ride with Alpes Montgolfière (+33(0)4 50 55 50 60).

L’Alpage au Fer à Cheval on Route du Crêt d’Arbois is an upscale hotel restaurant serving superlative Savoyard fare (+33 (0)4 50 21 30 39). On the mountain, L’Alpette has gastro standards as high as its altitude, and does brilliant burgers (+33 (0)4 50 21 03 69). For a change from Megève’s plentiful supply of Savoyard eateries, Le Restaunome at 201 rue de la Poste offers a globetrotting menu in a dark-wood contemporary dining room (+33 (0)4 50 55 86 24). Succulent seafood and grilled meats lead the menu at Les Enfants Terribles (sister restaurant to L’Alpette) on Place de l’Eglise, a spacious, modern restaurant with theatrical flourishes and eye-catching murals (+33 (0)4 50 58 76 69).

Lunch on melting flaky tartes salées, followed by hand-made meringues and truffles, at pint-sized patisserie-café, Le Comptoir du Père Sotieu, on Rue du Général Muffat St Amour (+33 (0)4 50 21 67 51).

On Rue de la Poste, Palo Alto is a late-night staple in Megève. It attracts a young crowd and stays open until 5am, for dancing till dawn (+33 (0)4 50 91 82 58). Just off the main square, at 19 passage de Cinq Rues, Jazz Club Les 5 Rues looks like a members-only affair you’ll never gain entry to, but loiter by the unprepossessing wooden door after 10pm and you will get in, for drinks accompanied by laid-back jazz and blues (+33 (0)4 50 91 90 69).