Mr & Mrs Smith

After lazing by the beach or pool, active types can grab an Alila surfboard to tackle the nearby breaks, ride a horse along the black-sand beach or cycle through the rice paddies. The Leisure Concierge can also organise ‘Journeys by Alila’ exploring Tabanan’s thrills, spills and culture, including visits to food markets, crafts workshops and temples.

Bali boasts innumerable holy spots and other shrines but none has a more dramatic presence than Tanah Lot, the 16th-century Hindu sanctuary built on a rocky outcrop and known as the Temple of the Earth in the Sea. Located about 20 minutes south of Alila Villas Soori, this is only the most famous of the resort’s spiritual neighbours worth visiting on the temple tour that culminates at the hilltop Timan Agung temple with Champagne and canapés at sunset.

Coffee drinkers will especially appreciate one of the other special Journeys by Alila experiences, the Munuk excursion, to see how Bali’s famous Kopi Luwak is produced and then taste the aromatic brew. Also on offer from the resort’s uniquely in-depth Journeys programme are explorations into the ancient rice terraces, the opportunity to learn Balinese dance, riding along the beach on one of the horses from the nearby royal stable, and the chance to spend the day with famed Balinese artisans.

Apart from humble warungs on nearby beaches, there are few restaurants around here. Head towards Seminyak – about an hour’s drive – to enjoy some of Bali’s finest fare. Sarong (+62 (0)361 737 809), at Jalan Petitenget, has a pan-Asian menu encompassing grilled and tandoori dishes, curries and creative stir-frys. Newcomer Métis (+62 (0)361 737 888) has a tempting Gallic menu in a gorgeous rice-paddy setting. Watch the sun set with a cocktail, then indulge in tasty Italian fare at beachside La Lucciola (+62 (0)361 730 838), on Oberoi Road.

A favourite place for Bali visitors to watch the sun set is the huge, funky Ku De Ta (+62 (0)361 736 969; Jl Kayu Aya No 9, Seminyak; www.kudeta.net), which combines beach club, lounge bar and restaurant on the Seminyak waterfront. The range of cocktails is definitely a cut above.

There's not a lot going on after hours in this neighbourhood but travel back to Seminyak and Kuta (about an hour away) and you’ll find a completely different scene. A lot of it, of course, caters to crazy backpackers but there are pockets suitable for the more-discerning visitor. Climb the stairs to the roof of Sky Garden Lounge (Jl Legian 61; +62 (0)361 756 362), enjoy a cocktail, find a spot to shake your thing and watch as it all starts to go astray late at night. It's popular with European footballers playing in the local league. Speaking of things going astray, Double Six (+62 (0)361 733 067; Jl Double Six; www.doublesixclub.com) is the huge open-air club on the beach of the same name with a swimming pool and bungee jump. More upmarket is the nearby De Ja Vu (+62 (0)316 732 777; Jl Double Six), with its top DJs, trendy crowd and huge glass doors overlooking the beach.

March or April The whole of the island closes down for 24 hours on Nyepi, the last day of the Hindu saka calendar. For the Balinese it’s a day of introspection and no one is allowed on the street. It’s believed evil spirits will think everyone has deserted the island and move on. Use it as a day to catch up on sleep or reading, but avoid arriving on Nyepi as many hotels won't process check-ins. The night before though, there are street parades as well as people banging on drums and letting off firecrackers to scare off any demons. June–July For a month, Denpasar celebrates traditional Balinese culture at the Bali Arts Festival (www.baliartsfestival.com) with dancing, food, musical performances and parades. September See baby turtles released, kites flown, waves surfed in competition and hundreds of other fun events during the Kuta Karnival (www.kutakarnival.com) on popular Kuta Beach.