Mr & Mrs Smith

Mr & Mrs Smith have just returned from a stay at this relaxing heritage hotel, and just as soon as they've unpacked their Lao Mountain Coffee (it’s fairtrade, don’t you know?), a full account of their Mekong meanders will be with you. In the meantime, just to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick postcard from 3 Nagas in Luang Prabang…

At first glance, you might think 3 Nagas is all a bit disconnected – its three historic renovations spread across both sides of Luang Prabang’s main street. But somehow it works. The love and care invested in the delicate restoration unites the buildings as one, and each brings its own character to the equation. And crossing a busy street? Don’t worry, the closest thing to a traffic jam you'll see here is the saffron-clad monks shuffling by to collect their alms each day.

The attention to detail in the restored buildings makes visiting here akin to experiencing a luxury home stay with a French colonial officer during the Indochine epoch. However, time has moved on and the property boasts a subtle blend of past and present, including such necessary comforts as air-conditioning and minibar. You'll love the four-poster beds, billowing with delicate organza silk. The beams and rafters are reminiscent of childhood stays in provincial relais in Normandy, and the creaky floorboards just add to the authentic atmosphere.

Dining at 3 Nagas is not to be missed. Famous beyond the four walls of the hotel, it was voted the best restaurant in Laos by The New York Times just a couple of years ago. Go local with laap ped, a spicy salad of marinated duck with mint, shallots and lemongrass, accompanied by purple sticky rice. Alternatively, sample French-inspired fare with a chicken breast stuffed with peppered camembert, young spinach and pistachio nuts and finished with a coffee sauce. Home or away, the meals are superb.

It may not offer the sophistication of an exclusive resort, but the real charm of 3 Nagas hails from the very fabric of this World Heritage site. Weaving together three historic properties in the heart of the old city, this is the location for those who want to live Luang Prabang.