Worth getting out of bed for...

Viewpoint

Catch a sunset, vistas of Ningaloo Reef or glimpses of passing humpback whales from the hill beside Vlamingh Head Lighthouse, 17 kilometres north of Exmouth. The best views here though are subaquatic. Paddle a sea kayak out to the Blue Lagoon, off South Mandu Beach, a five-metre-deep natural aquarium where you can gaze down as fish and turtles frolic and coral fronds waft.

Arts and culture

The world’s oldest necklace was found in a cave in the Cape Range National Park, but short of stumbling upon Aboriginal relics this area is more about nature than culture. To learn about threatened turtles call into the Jurabi Turtle Centre (www.ningalooturtles.org.au), 13 kilometres from Exmouth between Hunters and clothing-optional Mauritius Beaches.

Something for nothing

Far removed from city light pollution, Ningaloo is a star-gazer’s idyll. Lie back on a dune and try and count ’em all. Wildlife sightings come for free, too: any short stroll should flush out a few red kangaroos, wallaroos, wallabies, Gould’s goannas, birds or even emus.

Shopping

Retail opportunities round these remote parts are mainly of the diving, surfing and camping variety (Ningaloo Reef isn’t on Prada’s radar yet). You’ll find what little shopping there is (and ATMs) in local towns Exmouth, around Maidstone Crescent, and Coral Bay, on Robinson Street.

Daytripper

Head down to Coral Bay, at the southern edge of the marine park, a tiny town perched on a gorgeous bay. Its Main Beach is safe for swimming as it’s protected by an encircling reef, with snorkelling kit, glass-bottom canoes and body boards up for hire. From Coral Bay, you can snorkel with manta rays or swim with whale sharks from Ningaloo Experience’s catamaran (www.ningaloo experience.com) or with Coral Bay Adventures (www.coralbayadventures.com.au), who also offer whale watching in season.

Best beach

South Mandu Beach, near Mandu Mandu Gorge Road, is as pristine as you get, backed by dunes and light scrub with the reef a short swim out. Lakeside suits kids and Oyster Stacks is good for snorkelling at high tide. For information on current-free beaches, pop into the Milyering Visitor Centre (08 9949 2808), in Cape Range National Park, which provides maps and sells and hires out snorkelling kit.

Perfect picnic

Tough call: you’ve got the whole of the 510-square-kilometre Cape Range National Park, as well as the wave-lapped beaches of Ningaloo Marine Park, to choose from. For scenic views on the east coast, self-drive either along the ridge of Charles Knife Canyon or the base of Shothole Canyon, which are 23 and 16 kilometres south of Exmouth respectively.

Walks

Two kilometres behind luxury wilderness camp Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef, a walk up Mandu Mandu Gorge makes for an inspiring three-kilometre return ramble. When you’re not cooing over ancient limestone formations and fossils, you’ll be sneaking peeks at the too-blue coastline.

Children

When they’re bored of sandcastles, distract the nippers with a guided cruise or one-and-a-half-kilometre round-trip walk to Yardie Creek, a red limestone-lined, water- and mangrove-filled gorge that draw birds, marine animals and thirsty black-footed rock wallabies. Find it at the end of the sealed Yardie Creek Road or contact Exmouth’s DEC–Yardie Creek Tours (08 9949 2808) or Ningaloo Safari Tours (www.ningaloosafari.com) for cruises.

Activities

Ningaloo is swimming and snorkelling heaven with pristine beaches and reefs at your flipper-tips. Expect to spy anemones, clownfish, rays, staghorn coral and sponge gardens below the waves. To snorkel with whale sharks you’ll need to join a boat trip from Exmouth or Coral Bay. Try Ningaloo Blue Charters (08 9949 1119), which also offers fishing, or Ningaloo Reef Dreaming (08 9949 4777), which uses a spotter plane to locate whale sharks, and can also take you scuba diving.

And

Swim smart: there are dangerous currents along this coast, so check conditions are safe before you dive in (otherwise, it’s next stop, Indonesia…).