Local knowledge

Taxis

Yellow taksis are relatively inexpensive but have the infuriating tendency to refuse to take you somewhere if they can’t face the traffic. During the day, the meter displays gündüz (day rate). From midnight to 6am, the gece (night rate) is in effect, adding 50 per cent to the cost (if the meter is not on, get out and take another taxi). Don’t expect your driver to know where he’s going; ask your hotel to write down the address.

Tipping culture

A tip is expected in restaurants, and 10 per cent is standard. If a service charge is included, an additional sum is still expected. Taxi drivers, however, do not expect to be tipped.

Siesta and fiesta

Business hours are between 8.30am and 5.30pm, sometimes with a break for lunch. Restaurants get busy from 8pm onwards, and clubs continue until the small hours.

Packing tips

Women should pack a long skirt and shawl and men long trousers if you plan on visiting Istanbul’s many mosques (some mosques, such as the Blue Mosque, hand you sheets to wrap around yourself before you enter if you are inappropriately dressed). It gets a bit chilly by the water at night and many restaurants and water taxis have shawls/blankets/wraps; ask for one if you are cold.

Recommended reads

The Towers of Trebizond by Rose Macauley; Istanbul (Memories and the City) by Orhan Pamuk; Strolling Through Istanbul by John Freely and Hilary Sumner-Boyd.

Cuisine

Turkish cuisine has a noble heritage, developed over centuries and honed to please the Ottoman sultans; you may have to re-evaluate your opinion of kebabs. The most traditional of Istanbul’s eateries are the taverna-style meyhane, where you can sample tapas-like meze – best moistened with a mouthful or two of Turkey’s fearsomely strong raki; try to get Tekirdag rather than the more ubiquitous Yeni Raki, and remember to water it down as you would Pernod or ouzo. The city also has a burgeoning restaurant scene with excellent fresh fish, and Asian, Armenian and Mediterranean fusion menus, and there’s plenty to tempt the sweet-toothed, from pistachio-packed baklava and kadavif pastries to lokum (Turkish delight) – ideal with a smooth, super-strong Turkish coffee.

Currency

Turkish Lira (TL). US dollars and Euros are also commonly used.

Dialling codes

Country for Turkey: 90. Istanbul: (0)212 or (0)216.

Do go/don't go

Istanbul is hot and humid in the summer, while winter may even see heavy snowfalls. Spring and autumn definitely see the city at its best, with fine weather and milder temperatures.