Worth getting out of bed for...

Viewpoint

Admire a sunrise riverside spectacular from atop Thailand’s tallest temple: the aptly named Temple of the Dawn, Wat Arun. The cruise itself is half the pleasure, providing a chance to watch the city wake up. Head to the river and take a private boat or board the Chao Phraya river bus to the temple, then ascend 76m up the mythical-Khmer-being-emblazoned prang (spire) to enjoy the uplifting views of the city.

Arts and culture

Bangkok is dotted with impressive edifices testifying to its importance as a royal and spiritual centre. The Grand Palace is a bewitching visual feast, home to Wat Phra Kaeo, the sacred temple of the Emerald Buddha. The Thailand Creative & Design Centre (www.tcdc.or.th) in the Emporium shopping centre hosts regular contemporary design exhibitions. Jim Thompson House hosts a stunning collection of furniture, art and antiques at 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, off Rama 1 Road (www.jimthompsonhouse.com).

Something for nothing

To gain an insight into Bangkok life, watch people as they play in Lumpini Park, the city’s largest central green space. Be amazed at the activity: runners looping the circumference; people practising t’ai chi and yoga; elderly Thai-Chinese women ballroom dancing; mass aerobics sessions and even open-air karaoke.

Shopping

The biggest shopping centre is the leviathan Siam Paragon (www.siamparagon.co.th). For edgier offerings, hop across the road to Siam Square district, an atmospheric warren of mini-boutiques and food stalls that’s Bangkok’s answer to Soho. Drop in on girly treasure trove It’s Happened to be a Closet (sic) on Soi 3 for retro-style clothes, shoes, a mani/pedi and slice of cake. If you’re magnetised by markets, don’t miss Chatuchak Weekend Market, next to Kampaeng Phet Metro station, where Thais and foreigners alike flock to empty their purses and fill their bellies.

Daytripper

Siam’s former royal capital, Ayutthaya, is a smorgasbord of crumbling antiquities and tucked-away temples, 80km north of Bangkok. These spiritual sanctuaries are not lifeless relics but living, breathing spaces, still populated and tended by saffron-robed monks. The Chao Phraya winds its way up from Bangkok, and several companies offer cruise tours (boat one way, air-con coach the other). One of the better efforts is the Ayutthaya Princess, which leaves Shangri-La Hotel pier at 8am every morning.

Perfect picnic

Forget sitting outside when the weather is sweltering hot: don your white linens, polish your Queen’s English and take afternoon tea in the Authors’ Lounge at the historic Mandarin Oriental hotel. Just make sure you book ahead: it is justifiably popular (+66 (0)2 659 9000).

Walks

Resident photographer, writer and passionate foodie Korakot Punloprusksa (Nym) can take you on a magical mystery tour through the city’s riverside communities and the bustling Night Flower Market, finishing up at Wat Suthat in time to hear the monks chanting. Contact Nym at info@thailandinstyle.com.

Children

Despite first impressions, Bangkok is brilliant for kids (though not for pushchairs). Renew a belief in giants with an up-close view of the reclining Buddha’s 3m long feet at Wat Pho. Siam Ocean World (+66 (0)26 872 000; www.siamoceanworld.co.th) is one of the largest aquariums in south-east Asia with 30,000 marine animals and a specialist shark tank. Let your under-14s loose in Funarium to burn off energy indoors (www.funarium.co.th).

Activities

Charter a longtail boat from Oriental or Chan Pier to explore the city from the river – head up Khlong Bangkok Yai for a close-up view of Wat Arun and a peek at Bangkok’s riverside. Allow two hours and expect to pay about THB1,000. Gain an introduction to Thai cuisine in the refined surrounds of the Blue Elephant Cooking School at 233 South Sathorn Road (+66 (0)26 739 353). If you’re feeling fit, join ABC Amazing Cyclists for a ride out to the lush Bang Ka Jao.

And

Bangkok’s astonishing number of transvestites and transsexuals (katoeys) are almost universally accepted by Thailand’s tolerant population. Some of the more flamboyant ladyboys take to the stages at Calypso Caberet, www.calypsocaberet.com.