Local Knowledge

Taxis

You have to call for air-con cabs – they’re forbidden from stopping in the street – so keep the number for Kangaroo Cabs handy (+94 (0)11 258 8588). Tuk tuks can be flagged down anywhere, and cries of ‘you need taxi?’ accompanied by a hovering, spluttering tuk tuk follow you wherever you go. Bartering is expected, but do it with a smile.

Tipping culture

Most restaurants automatically add a 10 per cent service charge to the bill. If they don’t and you’ve been pleased with the service, add it yourself. Tipping bell boys, guides and drivers is always appreciated.

Siesta and fiesta

Despite the daytime crush, come twilight Colombo’s streets are often eerily deserted, even though there might be plenty going on behind closed doors. Shops open around 10am and restaurants follow an international rhythm. Banks shut by 5.30pm Monday–Friday, with some open on Saturday mornings, too. Otherwise, cash up at ATMs around town.

Packing tips

Closed-toe shoes as Colombo’s roads can be filthy, and an umbrella for the sudden onset of monsoon showers. Kids should bring a kite to join in the evening’s antics on the Galle Face Green.

Recommended reads

Cinnamon Gardens by Shyam Selvadurai is an engrossing tale of love and prejudice in the most exclusive enclave of 1920s Colombo. July by Karen Roberts is a heart-wrenching Romeo and Juliet story of a young couple caught up in the horrors of the capital’s 1983 race riots. Carl Muller’s Colombo: A Novel reveals more about the city’s highs and lows than most residents would know themselves.

Cuisine

Though there are plenty of international-leaning restaurants in Colombo, it’s worth seeking out authentic Sri Lankan nosh. Two favourite snacks are kothu roti (thick meat- or veg-filled flatbreads) and hoppers (wafer-thin, bowl-shaped pancakes with crispy edges and soft, spongy centres). Both are delicious dipped in fish curry or creamy lentil dhal and served with spicy sides such as katta sambol, a mixture of diced red onion, chilli and a squeeze of lime.

Currency

Sri Lankan Rupee (LKR).

Time zone

Country code for Sri Lanka: 94; local code for Colombo: (0)11.

Dialling codes

GMT +5.5.

Do go/don't go

Colombo swelters year round, and there’s no escaping the heat or humidity. May–July and October–December are monsoon months on the west coast, bringing huge storms and frequent rainfall that are best avoided. January–April is the driest period of the year.