Worth getting out of bed for...

Viewpoint

Catch the cable car that leaves from the edge of Ondaretta for the top of Mount Igueldo (www.monteigueldo.es), where you’ll get unbeatable views of the city and the half-moon La Concha bay.

Arts and culture

Museo Chillida-Leku displays sculptor Eduardo Chillida’s creations in an old stone farmhouse in Jauregui (www.museochillidaleku.com). The peppermint grounds are dotted with his granite, iron and wooden works. There’s also Casa de la Historia on top of Mount Igueldo, a house of San Sebastián history. And Museo Naval on Paseo Muelle (+34 (0)94 343 0051) for anyone who wants a maritime masterclass. Theatre fans should take in a performance at the grand old Victoria Eugenia (www.victoriaeugenia.com).

Something for nothing

Go to see the Comb of the Winds, Eduardo Chillida’s favourite piece of work – the Basque sculpting hero anchored three pieces of steel to the rocks at one end of La Concha Bay, at the base of Mount Igueldo.

Shopping

Mercato de la Bretxa (www.la-bretxa.com) is an underground food market in the centre of San Sebastián where fish, crustaceans, cured ham and cheese are all artfully arranged. Ponsol is the oldest manufacturer of hats in the region; find it on Calle Narrica (+34 (0)94 342 0876). You’ll want to stock up on local specialities before you leave – head to Don Serapio on Sancho El Sabio (www.donserapio.com) for all the Basque tastes you can think of.

Daytripper

Head up to Astigarraga to visit the many cider houses (www.sagardotegiak.com), just a 15-minute drive from the city. Traditionally, Basques drink cider fresh from the barrel, seated at long shared tables and dining on cod-filled omelettes, steak cooked over an open grill and cheese with quince paste and nuts.

Best beach

The genteel curve of La Concha – good enough for holidaying Spanish monarchy and European aristocracy.

Perfect picnic

Supplies can be gathered from Zaporejai in the old quarter (+34 (0)94 342 2882). Fill your hamper with acorn-fed Iberian ham, fish and shellfish conserves and foie gras, then follow the path to the peak of Mount Urgull for views of the bay as you feast. And if you want fresh prawns to barbecue on the beach, head to Ortigala Pescaderia on Avenida Sancho El Sabio (+34 (0)94 345 6308).

Walks

Do La Concha bay justice and see it from every angle by walking from one end to the other. You’ll cross Ondarreta and La Concha beaches on your 3km stroll past famous sculptures (by Chillida and Oteiza), rock formations named after parrots and majestic former monarchical residences.

Children

Mount Igueldo has its very own funfair at its summit (www.monteigueldo.es) – teacups, dodgems and rollercoasters all await. There’s also an aquarium on Plaza Carlos Blasco de Imaz (www.aquariumss.com) and an interactive science museum on Paseo Mikeletegi (www.miramon.org).

Activities

Visit 12th-century crumbling Castillo de la Mota perched on Mount Urgull to see its battlement walls and rusting canons. Ask a learned local to take you on a walking tour with Donostia-San Sebastián Tourism (www.donostia.org). Or if you’re more concerned with the culinary, take a food-based tour with Tenadour (www.tenadourtours.com). And learn how to make those precious pintxos for yourself with a three-hour workshop imparting the wisdom behind this edible Basque art form (+34 (0)94 321 7717; www.pintxosance.com).

And

Txokos (gastronomic societies) have been gathering in San Sebastián since 1843. The men of the town come together to discuss, cook and eat food – and it gets competitive. Many buildings in the town will even have shared kitchens where you’d usually find tennis courts or swimming pools.