Local knowledge

Taxis

It’s best not to flag cabs in the street – some are unlicensed and you do hear the occasional horror story. Have your hotel arrange a taxi for you where possible, or call Taximex (+52 55 5634 9912). If you do flag one down, look for a green or red mark along the bottom of the number-plate that denotes a licensed car. You’ll find taxi ranks outside many of the major museums and tourist spots but, be warned, overcharging is something of a habit.

Tipping culture

Tips or propinas are a big part of Mexican culture and the norm is between 10 and 15 per cent for restaurant and bar staff. Hotel porters will also expect something. People earn a living off tips at airports, bus stations and taxi ranks by acting as unofficial porters and it’s usual to give them a few pesos in return for their assistance.

Siesta and fiesta

There are no hard and fast rules but shops generally keep long hours, from around 9am to 8pm, although impromptu siestas do occur. Lunch is usually 2pm or 3pm, and dinner similarly late, at about 9pm–10pm. Bars fill up as midnight approaches and clubs shortly afterwards.

Packing tips

An umbrella will serve you well in any season: rain is a daily event in June, and at other times you can use your brolly to stave off the sun’s unrelenting rays.

Recommended reads

The Years with Laura Diaz by Carlos Fuentes is a meaty novel offering insight into the complex politics of 20th-century Mexico. The Conquest of New Spain by Bernal Diaz de Castillo is fascinating account by one of Cortes’ conquistadors of his impressions of the Aztec culture and the bloody war that followed their arrival. A Visit to Don Otavio by Sybille Bedford – witty travel writing from one of the greats, and a portrait of Mexico in the late Forties.

Cuisine

Mexican cuisine is founded on corn, used to make tortillas, the small cornflour pancakes that are the Mexican equivalent of bread. Other food staples like chilli, tomato and chocolate also hail from Mexico and you can expect to find them throughout the country. The typical Mexico-City meal will feature tacos, crunchy corn tortillas usually served with meat, chicken or nopales (prickly pear stems), and bottle-loads of delicious chilli sauces. Also worth trying are chiles rellenos (stuffed mild peppers), and frijoles (black beans often cooked with pork). Another classic is tamales (cornmeal usually stuffed with meat or fish and steamed inside corn husks).

Currency

Mexican pesos (MXN). One peso is around 5p/10¢.

Time zone

GMT -6 hours

Dialling codes

Country code: +52; Mexico City: 55 – you’ll still need to use this when dialling within Mexico City. If you need to call a mobile number, dial a 1 after the country code. Mexican dialling codes are notoriously complex and even the locals don’t always know what to ring – if in doubt, ask your hotel for help.

Do go/don't go

June is the rainy season, although in between showers it can still get very hot as the humidity increases, so it’s not the ideal time to go. Mexico City enjoys a warm climate throughout the rest of the year but winter can be the most pleasant time to visit.