Local Knowledge

Taxis

The meters in Penang's taxis are redundant as the drivers flatly refuse to use them; negotiate the fare before you set off. Typical trips around town cost about RM6–RM15. A ride to or from the airport should be about RM40. To navigate Georgetown's laneways, commandeer one of the island's ubiquitous bicycle rickshaws, dubbed trishaws (again, agree a fee for an hour's exploring or for your specific journey, before hopping on board).

Tipping culture

Tips of around 10 per cent are appreciated but are not typically part of Malaysian culture. If service charges are added (usually at top hotels and restaurants), they're usually expressed as ‘++’, meaning 'plus 10 per cent and five per cent tax'.

Siesta and fiesta

Shops open around 9.30am and close at 7pm, with malls operating 10am–10pm. Bank hours are 10am–3pm, Monday to Friday; 9.30am–11.30am on Saturdays. Restaurants and cafés offer the usual lunch and dinner hours, with street stalls mainly operating at night, often until the early hours.

Packing tips

Penang is a steamy destination, so bring casual cotton and linen clothes. Pack something smart for high-end dining and warm to cope with overly cranked air-con. Comfy walking shoes may sound like boy scout clobber, but they're a must for hiking up Penang Hill; sandals will cut it elsewhere, with flip-flops – or flippers – for the beach.

Recommended reads

The Gift of Rain, by Tan Twan Eng, is set in Penang just before and during WWII, capturing the period's turbulent blend of Chinese culture, British imperialism and Japanese occupation. Island native Tan fondly evokes both the land and its people, offering a nostalic homage to Georgetown's fast-disappearing heritage. Penang: Through Gilded Doors, by Julie de Bierre and James Bain Smith, is a gorgeously photographed coffee-table book that takes you inside some of the island’s most magnificent homes.

Cuisine

Prepare for a gastronomic treat: Penang's reputation as Malaysia's food capital is fully justified. Georgetown’s buzzy streets are lined with stalls, cafés and restaurants serving delicious Malay, Chinese, Indian and European dishes, plus the fabulously tasty conflation of Chinese and Malay culinary styles known as Nonya cuisine.

Regional specialities

Must-eats include asam laksa, an iconic dish of rice noodles with a fish-based gravy flavoured with sour-sweet tamarind and topped with slivers of ginger flower, chopped pineapple and mint leaves; and laksa lemak – noodles in a light, spicy curry broth. Cleanse your palate with tangy nutmeg juice or a Tiger beer.

Currency

Malaysian ringgit (MYR or RM).

Time zone

GMT + 8 hours.

Dialling codes

Country code for Malaysia: +60; area code for Penang: (0)4 (ditch the zero if calling from overseas).

Do go/don't go

Penang is a year-round destination with constantly high temperatures (around 20–30°C) and tropical humidity. The rainiest period is May to October, but it’s fun to visit in July when the event-packed Georgetown arts and culture festival is in full swing. Chinese New Year (January or February) is another fab festival time, but it's also a big draw for locals so things can get hectic.