Local Knowledge

Taxis

Use public water buses (€6.50 a journey, or €14 for a 12-hour travelcard); they all take the same route – the difference is how many stops they make. You can hail or call for a water taxi, but they can be pricey.

Tipping culture

In restaurants, service is generally included in bills, so Venetians will just round the amount up a few euros, or leave a handful of coins. If you really want to, add five to 10 per cent extra.

Siesta and fiesta

Business hours are fairly standard, with food shops closing in the afternoon and reopening at around 4–5pm for a few hours. In the winter months, shops close on Sundays and Monday mornings.

Packing tips

Comfortable shoes; mosquito repellent in summer; bubble wrap for protecting fragile purchases such as Murano glass.

Recommended reads

Death in Venice by Thomas Mann; The Comfort of Strangers by Ian McEwan; A History of Venice by John Julius Norwich.

Cuisine

Venetian cooks exploit the fruits of the sea to produce oceanic dishes as intriguing as Venice itself: risotto nero, stained black with cuttlefish ink; silky marinated sardines and hearty fish soup. Recipes often include ingredients recalling the city’s merchant days (pine nuts, raisins and pomegranate) and produce from the mountains to the north. Other regional stars include fegato alla Veneziana (calf’s liver and onions), raddichio from Treviso, asparagus and fiery grappa from Bassano, and of course, Veneto wines, especially pinot grigio, merlot, valpolicella and sparkling prosecco. Venice also has a version of tapas – cicchetti, little savoury mouthfuls best enjoyed around midday with a thimbleful of wine.

Currency

Euro (€).

Dialling codes

Country code for Italy: 39. Venice: 041.

Do go/don't go

August is hot, sticky and full of tourists. Autumn can be lovely. February is great if you’re going to the ball for carnival, but trying to find a hotel room in that month is no picnic.