Worth getting out of bed for...

Viewpoint

You’re spoilt for scenery on the Ionian Islands – just hop in a car, park somewhere near the sea, and ogle away. We love the sparkling waters of the bay viewed from above Myrtos Beach in Kefalonia. On Ithaca, the remote monastery of Katheron, high on Mt Niritos gives a great bird’s-eye view of the island (just turn your back on the phone masts).

Arts and culture

Kefalonia is more about natural beauty than archaeological significance, although the pretty port of Fiskardo has a handful of original Venetian buildings worth a look-see, and the 16th-century Assos Fortress on the north-west coast is one of the largest castles in Greece. Ithaca’s wild and hilly geography and hidden harbours meant that it has had a largely uninterrupted history, although 18th-century Venetians have left the island with a penchant for pasta and some nifty architecture. If you do need a Homeric fix, Stavros (a town, not a local) has the ruins of Odysseus’ palace.

Something for nothing

It’s hard to avoid getting little extras everywhere you go. The Greeks have a tradition of filoxenia – literally ‘the love of strangers’ – evident in the sincerity of their welcome and gratified appreciation of the most meagre attempt at the lingo. Every meal entails something special on the house: plates of bread and herby feta, a slice of something sweet afterwards – often both.

Shopping

Beyond beachwear, the odd bit of chic jewellery, and tourist tat, Kefalonia and Ithaca don’t have much to offer serious shoppers. There are a few little boutiques in Fiskardo and Vathy. Island-made olive-oil soap and Kefalonian honey make good souvenirs, however.

Daytripper

Easy – if you’re based in Kefalonia, take a boat to Ithaca; if you’re based in Ithaca, the reverse applies. Although the Ionians aren’t on the normal island-hopping route, you can easily catch one of the daily ferries between Fiskardo and Vassiliki, on nearby Lefkada for a day’s windsurfing (the island’s famed for it), sailing or mooching about on yet another perfect beach. If you’re craving big(gish)-city thrills, Patras on the mainland is a three-hour trip from Fiskardo.

Best beach

Star of the Kefalonian postcard industry, Myrtos Beach is hands-down the most dramatic, with a kaleidoscope of colour playing on the water, alabaster sands, and mountain-flanked setting, but pebbly Fokis Beach near Fiskardo is a bastion of low-key loveliness, surrounded by cypress woods and grassy knolls dotted with olive trees and spring flowers. There’s a little taverna, too, so you don’t need to venture far for lunch.

Perfect picnic

For bread, pastries and delicious baklava, make a beeline for island-famed bakery, Spathis. The sign’s in Greek, but if you’re in Fiskardo, Argostoli, Sami or Vathy and come upon a maroon shopfront with yellow lettering, you’re in the right place. Take your spoils to Petani Beach on Kefalonia and picnic under the striking rock overhang, or head to Agios Ioannis on Ithaca’s western coast and look out across the sea to Kefalonia while you eat.

Walks

Start from the picturesque isthmus village of Assos and meander up to the fort, where you’ll find the remnants of a Venetian castle, a sweep of deserted scrubland and a fantastic view.

Children

Kids are welcomed with a smile everywhere on the islands – and the majority of restaurants will have no problem catering to tiny tastes. Stock up on snacks, hire a boat in one of Kefalonia or Ithaca’s port-side villages and set off on a seafaring adventure exploring caves, coves and hidden beaches. On Kefalonia’s east coast, not far from Sami, the Melissani Cave is an eye-widener for kids. Take a boat tour of the huge underground lake – at midday the sun shines through a hole in the roof, bathing everything in a bright cobalt light.

Activities

Water-based pursuits abound on both islands. Take a kayak around the cove-riddled coasts – many bays and beaches can’t be reached on foot (www.seakayakingkefalonia-greece.com). There can be few better accessories to take snorkelling than a qualified marine biologist: operating in Fiskardo and Port Polis, Ithaca, Jamie Stirling will take you to sea in his caique (a traditional Greek working boat) and give you a detailed low-down on what to look for under the waves (www.ioniandiscoveries.com). In Kefalonia, visit the island’s oldest winery, the Gentilini vineyard just south of Argostoli – Marianna and Petros will be happy to take you on a free tour and tasting on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays throughout the summer (www.gentilini.gr).

And

The devastating Ionian earthquake of 1953 not only destroyed most of Kefalonia’s buildings, it also raised the entire island 60cm above the sea – look carefully and you can still see the watermarks.