
Boutique hotels
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Le Lodge Kerisper
- Style
- Castaway cabin
- Setting
- Portside perch
Brittany Activities
Worth getting out of bed for...
- Viewpoint
- Head out to the pretty peninsula near the village of Belz and you’ll be able to see Saint-Cado, a tiny island scattered with a handful of houses. You can get there via a bridge, but the view is lovelier from the mainland, from which you can see its star turn, a 12th-century chapel.
- Arts and culture
- uimper is Brittany’s history hub. Head there to admire the architecture of the Gothic cathedral, granite bishop’s palace and 16th-century mansions, and the old town’s cobbled streets and timbered houses. Seaside Carnac has a prehistoric landscape of huge menhirs and ancient burial places. The mediaeval walled town of Concarneau has been attracting artists since the 19th century; follow La Route des Peintres en Cornouaille, an art trail through the southwest quarter. Nearby, Pont Aven is where Paul Gauguin set up his studio.
- Something for nothing
- Take in the swampy landscape of the salt flats at Guérande. The square enclosures of marshland are the workplace of skilled paludiers (salt panners), who reap the premium fleur de sel.
- Shopping
- Deck yourself out in Breton sweaters and smocks from Armor Lux, with outposts in Quimper, Rennes, Vannes and Brest (www.armorlux.com). In Quimper, you can buy fine Breton lace, as well as local faience pottery with traditional Breton designs (they like yellow and blue borders).
- Daytripper
- Spend a day stalking the streets of Brittany’s capital, Rennes. It’s the home of Citroën and of Rennes University, founded in 1461. The elegant old centre was rebuilt in the 18th century after a huge fire (the mediaeval main gate, Les Portes Mordelaises, is still standing). Pop into Cathédrale Saint-Pierre to check out its 16th-century Flemish altarpiece, or book a guided tour of the restored Parlement de Bretagne (www.parlement-bretagne.com), which survived the fire in 1720 but didn’t get away so lightly during a fishermen’s protest in 1994. Finally, if you’re Rennes way on a Saturday, don’t miss the morning market, one of the biggest in France, selling absolutely everything from croissants to rabbits for the pot.
- Best beach
- La Grande Plage in Carnac is the perfect seaside resort, all white sandy shores, gently lapping waves and lots of water-based activities. It’s not far from the ancient monoliths, either.
- Walks
- For cliffs, coastline and crisp, clean air, drive to Quiberon then walk along the Côte Sauvage. Look for the Knights of the Round Table on a stroll through Brocéliande forest (also known as Paimpont).
- Children
- In the Gulf of Morbihan, sailing schools will give lessons to children for as long or short as you like. Watch them wrestling with the sails at Cataschool (www.cataschool.com) as you sit at picnic tables next door eating just-picked oysters in Port Lagaden.
- Activities
- Brest is one of Brittany’s biggest cities, where you can explore the Pont de Recouvrance and castle, then kick back in the bars and cafés of Rue de Siam. The port town of Saint-Malo is a walled city built on a picturesque peninsula. Stop off for some seafood after taking in the Cathedral of Saint Vincent and the maritime castle. Or take a boat trip to Iles des Glénan, a group of islands just south of Concarneau, where there’s a fort, sailing school and bird sanctuary. In Vannes, explore the old quarter’s cathedral, gardens and gateway port. For cliffs, coastline and crisp, clean air, drive to Quiberon, then walk along the Côte Sauvage. Soak up Arthurian legend on a stroll through Brocéliande forest, also known as Paimpont.
- And
- Brittany’s oysters might be its breadwinners, but that fine rustic cuisine likes a bit of butter, too: doux is sweet, demi-sel is slightly salty; you can even get a green-speckled seaweed variety.
Diary
April/May A scallop festival takes place in Saint-Quay-Portrieux on the north coast. Try the Bay of Saint-Brieuc’s best while fishing, shopping and listening to Celtic music. May/June Semaine du Golfe Sailing Festival (www.semainedugolfe. asso.fr) on the south coast marks the return of the sailing season, every two years, in the Gulf of Morbihan. July Hennebont in the Morbihan department stages mediaeval-style feasts, tournaments and jousting. In Quimper, Les Fêtes de Cornouaille takes place, a celebration of all things Breton. And there are more Celtic festivities at the end of the month in Lorient (www.festival-interceltique.com). August The Sea Shanty Festival comes round every two years in Paimpol, celebrating maritime music, with the best seafaring songs from Brittany and the rest of the world.