Local knowledge

Taxis

Taxis are cheap and plentiful in Fiji's main towns of Nadi, Port Denarau and Suva. Agree fares in advance if drivers don't have a meter, and don't expect slick cars. For longer trips, organise a more comfortable chauffeured car, as roads can be rough and unpaved. We recommend Rosie Holidays (+679 6722 755; www.rosiefiji.com).

Tipping culture

Tipping isn’t expected, although a 10 per cent tip for good service will do. Most hotels prefer guests to contribute to the staff Christmas fund box at reception, so tips can be shared equally among all.

Siesta and fiesta

Banks open 9am to 5pm, Monday to Friday; businesses and shops from 9am to 5pm on weekdays, and usually until 1pm on Saturdays. Restaurants serve from about 11am to 2pm and 6pm to 9pm weekdays.

Packing tips

Flip-flops and shorts or short skirts for hopping in and out of boats, as you may have to jump out in the water. Your own snorkel and rash shirt if you're serious about diving. Sun-cream, mosquito repellent and trainers, if you fancy jungle trekking.

Recommended reads

Fiji's largely oral tradition means literature has historically taken a back seat, but Myths and Legends of Fiji & Rotuma, by AW Reed and Ines Hames, shares dramatic tales of the gods and spirits behind the islands' creation. Set in capital Suva, Joseph Veramu's 1994 novel Moving Through The Streets deals with the pressures on Fiji's modern-day urban youth. Also look out for Indo-Fijian writing, such as Sigatoka-born Mohit Prasad's poetry, including Eating Mangoes.

Regional specialities

The cuisine is all about simple, seasonal and largely organic fare, with fresh-caught fish a feature (often seasoned with coconut cream, lime and spice, as in the ceviche-style kokoda). Carbs come care of hearty root vegetables, such as tavioka (cassava) and dalo (taro), and there's tropical fruit galore. Curries and dahl also come to the party, thanks to the country's Indo-Fijian minority.

Currency

Fijian dollars (FJ$ or FJD). Australian, New Zealand or US dollars can all be easily exchanged at banks, and ATMs are readily accessible.

Time zone

GMT +12 hours; +13 if daylight savings have kicked in.

Dialling codes

Country code for Fiji: +679.

Do go/don't go

Fiji enjoys a sunny, tropical climate year-round, but the best time to go is during the dry season, or ‘Fijian winter’, from May to October, when temperatures are milder and less humid. This is also high season, with a spike in costs. The wet season, from November to April, ramps up the rain, which can mean poorer visibility for diving. It’s also cyclone and hurricane season, although severe storms are rare. December and January’s summer holidays see Australian and New Zealand families flock to Fiji.