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Boutique hotels

Buenos Aires Overview

Argentina

Cityscape
Bundle of barrios
City life
Gauchos, gringos and tango

This sultry southern city has been igniting the passions of tango dancers, gringos and steak fans since South America’s colonial days…

The birthplace of seductive dance moves (and the hand of God) is a homage to the great Continental capitals – Paris, Madrid and Rome have all contributed to this sexy city, and not only by sending over various ex-pats to settle. As well as the influx of French, Spanish and Italian people, Europe has made its mark on the food, fashion and elegant architecture of the Argentine capital. To see gauchos in their garb at work on the pampas, you’ll have to venture into rural parts, but you won’t have to go far to taste their fare – in this city, you’re never far from a juicy steak. Sprawling Buenos Aires on the banks of the River Plate is a heavyweight on the continent, with only São Paulo in Brazil rivalling its metropolitan credentials. For high fashion, hit Palermo Viejo; for a cutting edge, contemporary vibe, try Palermo Hollywood. See bohemian Buenos Aires in historic San Telmo, a grittier quarter famed for antiques and authentic restaurants. The well heeled will find their Buenos Aires barrio is Recoleta, filled with fine galleries, museums and parks.

Beautifully Buenos Aires

Inhabitants of this city are obsessed by the delectable dulce de leche, a caramelised form of condensed milk, which they eat as ice cream, on its own or spread over everything. You can find it squashed into biscuits (alfajores), manufactured into sweets or covering croissants.

Local knowledge

Taxis
Taxis are visible all over the place, and you’ll be able to flag one down with as much ease as if you were in London or New York. Try to have small notes and change for cab rides if you don’t want to be met with an angry driver. Be sure to know the cross street for where you’re headed – roads and avenues can stretch for miles. It’s unlikely your driver will be fluent in English.

Tipping culture
10 per cent is the norm, but don’t be shy to leave more if you’ve received exceptional service. If you’re paying by card, try to leave your tip in cash if possible.

Siesta and fiesta
Things tend to quieten down after lunch (until 5pm) and then again between 8pm and 10pm before people go out to eat. Don’t be surprised to see people queuing for supper at midnight – and if you want to party with porteños (locals) instead of tourists, make reservations for after 10pm. Bars and clubs don’t get busy till after dinner – between 12am and 2am. Banks and ATMs don’t crop up on every corner, so take advantage when you see one.

Packing tips
A cheap-looking plastic watch (leave your Rolex at home); a handy phrasebook; left and right feet to ensure success on the dancefloors; carnivorous cravings.

Recommended reads
Tango: A History of an Obsession by Virginia Gift to brush up on your dance knowledge; Evita, First Lady by John Barnes for some insight into the nation’s favourite president’s wife.

Cuisine
The famed Argentine steak (reared by gauchos on estancias) is available in Buenos Aires around the clock. It’s all about the parilla or asado – meat cooked on a traditional grill or open fire. As well as mainstream cuts of beef and lamb, you’ll be offered delicacies including choripan (chorizo and bread), morcilla (black pudding), chinchulines (pig intestines), sweetbreads and other organs. Other favourites include humitas (cornhusk-wrapped corn with cheese and spices), pasty-inspired empanadas and the delectable dulche de leche (milk caramel). Wash all of these down with some Malbec, one of Argentina’s most highly regarded wines, or some Cerveza Quilmes, its favourite beer.

Currency
Argentine peso (A$).

Time zone
GMT -4.

Dialling codes
Country code for Argentina: +54. Buenos Aires: 11.

Do go/don't go
The city is mild enough all year round, but May–September is generally on the cooler side. The other, warmer months are busier and more expensive. Between January and March, temperatures can get as hot as 40˚C.

Don't go home without...

…trying maté, the gauchos’ favourite drink, made from dried and chopped yerba maté leaves and sipped from shisha-style straws.