Smith and Ski

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Smith tip

If you choose where you ski carefully, you can follow the sunshine as it travels across the valleys. Ski on the right-hand side of the valley in the morning and switch to the left-hand side after lunch. The higher slopes get the sun first. You should be able to ski home to the chalet in the late afternoon with the sun on your back.

Chalet Marmotte

Courchevel, France[view map]

Courchevel offers some of the finest restaurants in the Alps as well as the largest integrated ski area in Europe.

Slope off for lunch

The terrace at Les Chenus, at the top of the Chenus bubble, is a great place for lunch. It’s not cheap but it's worth it. Reservations: +33 (0)4 79 08 06 84.

Activities

Courchevel is pure heaven for skiers of all levels and has an enormous ski area to explore. The high altitude guarantees excellent conditions, even when other areas have limited snow; some resorts have been know to bus people to Courchevel as an emergency measure. If the snow is really good you can ski all the way from Saulire to St Bon – a drop of 1,600 metres. Try to ski the black runs, such as the fantastic Les Suisses, at the beginning of the week as they become crowded towards the weekend. Courchevel has excellent facilities for snowboarders and you can also arrange heli-skiing trips over the border in Italy. Few places offer as many Alpine alternatives as the Trois Vallées. You can also try skidooing, hot-air ballooning, parapenting, ice-skating, tobogganing and snow shoeing. The adventurous can take a transfer to nearby La Plagne to shoot the bobsleigh run while the unhinged can head to Tignes to try some ice-diving. Contact Whitetracks on +33 (0)686 12 34 17, www.whitetracks.co.uk.

Ski services

The staff can organise all ski equipment and in-chalet fittings. Courchevel has a fantastic hands-free lift pass system; the passes can also be arranged for you before arrival. Guests get a 20 per cent discount at Gilbert Sports (+33 (0)4 79 08 16 46). Marmotte's staff can book ski lessons and the services of hand-picked guides who will help you get the most out of the area’s 330 ski runs.

Restaurants

The Bateau Ivre

(+33 (0)4 79 00 11 71)

Courchevel 1850 is the only place in the Alps where you’ll find a pair of two-Michelin-star restaurants right next to each other. This restaurant at the Pomme de Pin hotel has the best views of the slopes.
Le Bateau Ivre, La Pomme de Pin Hotel, Courchevel 1850

Chabichou

(+33 (0)4 79 08 00 55)

Right next to the Bateau Ivre is the gastronomically spectacular Chabichou, also with two Michelin stars. There’s no shortage of spectacular ways to blow your cash at 1850.
Chabichou, Rue des Chenus, 73121 Courchevel 1850

Le Farçon

(+33 (0)4 79 08 80 34)

This place in La Tania has a mere one Michelin star – oh dear. The nine-course tasting menu is excellent.
Le Farçon, La Tania, Courchevel

La Crêperie du Moulin

(+33 (0)4 79 08 10 90)

This informal and friendly restaurant is great for crêpes in the afternoon and fondue in the evening.
La Crêperie du Moulin, Place du Tremplin, Courchevel 1850

Le Genépi

(+33 (0)4 79 08 08 63)

The only thing this restaurant lacks is a terrace. All the same, they serve excellent, classic French food so it’s still a firm favourite.
Le Genépi, Rue Park City, Courchevel 1850

Le Petit Savoyard

(+33 (0)4 79 08 27 44)

For something relaxed and informal, this restaurant in Courchevel 1650 is the perfect place for inexpensive local dishes and wood-fired pizzas.
Le Petit Savoyard, Rue du Marquis, Courchevel 1650

For a full list of eating and drinking recommendations in Courchevel, check out our Courchevel restaurant guide

For a full list of recommended activities in Courchevel, check out our Courchevel destination guide