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Settled by seafaring Spaniards in the 18th century, populated by gold-rush dreamers in the 19th century, and rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in the 20th century, San Francisco has a rich history of reinventing itself. It’s been home to some of America’s most liberal, forward-thinking citizens – the Beat Generation, the Summer of Love hippies and the dot-com boomers. Its youthful, hip social scene is still carefree and on the pulse. Just don’t call it Frisco unless you want everyone to know you’re from outta town.
You can’t visit this city without taking a ride on one of its famous cable cars. They were first conceived by a kind-hearted engineer who was distressed by the sight of horse teams being dragged downhill by the weight of their carriage. Each car has three separate braking systems, operated by a gripman. Flag down a car from one of stops; when you want to get off, never pull the bell cord – just yell ‘Next stop, please’. Give the gripman fair warning though, as cable cars take a while to bring to a halt. If you like kitsch souvenirs, the Cable Car Museum (www.cablecarmuseum.org) has cable-car-shaped music boxes that play ‘I left my heart in San Francisco’.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in San Francisco
Sophisticated, tasteful, refined, glamorous… the St Regis Hotel in San Francisco will not disappoint. Its astonishing new tower – nestled alongside some of the city's finest museums, in the SOMA district – provides remarkable city views.
Clift is the epitome of San Francisco decadence, but escape upstairs and the rooms are fresh, simple and stylish – a tranquil haven for when you slip off your Louboutins. It’s all about serious luxe here… and then some.
If you’re going to San Francisco, be sure you know where to catch your planes, trains, ferries or cable cars…
This Little Italy coffee institution on Columbus is a good place to get your caffeine fix.
This Union Street stop provides the perfect mid-shopping pit stop, with organic coffee, fresh soups and sandwiches; there are various La Boulange outlets across town – visit www.baybread.com for locations.
This great little find on Guerrero Street, in the heart of the vibrant Mission district, is more bakery than café, and serves some of the best pastries in the city. Join the eclectic clientele for hot chocolate and a croissant as they sip and surf.
Espresso aficionados will appreciate the Italian enclave of North Beach, next to China Town. Pick the first café you like the look of and you’ll get a decent coffee, but Stella's is renowned for its coffee and cakes.
A quirky, good-value restaurant on Valencia Street with electrifying cocktails and a former punk-rock guitarist pastry chef who makes a mean dessert.
In North Beach on Union Street near Grant, this place is a carnivore’s dream come true: estancia-style Argentinean beef grilled over wood and charcoal. Wash your melt-in-the-mouth steak down with a glass of plummy Argentine Malbec.
Howard Street venue with a long bar, exposed pipework, funky chandeliers and delicious seasonal food. The wine list features the best of the Napa and Sonoma valleys, plus international favourites.
Simple, seasonal and satisfying food is served against a backdrop of soulful tunes. This chilled-out spot on Market Street has a boudoir feel, with a lively circular bar and glittering crystal chandeliers.
A slick, smart eaterie at the St Regis hotel in the Financial District, with sharp service, a distinctive menu of New American cuisine and a weird and wonderful sake list.
An excellent Indian restaurant on Post Street near the Civic Center renowned for its romantic atmosphere. Reserve the Fantasy Room for an intimate tête-à-tête.
With a European-style gastropub menu, this Mission Street hangout near the Yerba Buena gardens is a good spot for Sunday brunch or upscale bar snacks.
A Bay Area institution and destination restaurant on Shattuck Avenue in Berkeley. It was opened in 1971 by seasonal-food and organic maverick Alice Waters and it can still be difficult to get a table – make sure you reserve well in advance.
Arguably the best dim sum in town, although it’s no longer in China Town where it first opened in 1958, and is only open for lunch; there are two outlets, one on Stevenson Street (+1 415 541 4949), and one in the Rincon Center on Spear Street (+1 415 957 9300).
Burritos are a San Franciscan speciality; head to the Mission district for fast and filling Mexican food at one of its cheap and cheerful little taquerías. This modest little gem on Valencia is a good bet, though.
This Gold Street speakeasy revives the stylish 1940s supper-club experience with an incredibly well-stocked, reassuringly masculine mahogany bar and live jazz every night.
On Pacific Avenue in the Jackson Square, this is a beautiful restaurant and bar designed by Michael Guthrie & Co with an elegant, unstuffy atmosphere. Exquisite Californian/French dishes, such as rabbit loin wrapped in pancetta with beluga lentils, combined with a chic cocktail lounge, impressive wine list and friendly but assured service.
This relaxed restautant on Mission Street has a fun, lively atmosphere and fantastic fresh grills and seafood. Slurp oysters in the bustle of the indoor dining room or sit outside in the heated courtyard with a steaming bowl of mussels and watch classic films projected onto the white brick walls.
The speakeasy craze is sweeping San Francisco, and this softly lit Twenties-style library bar sets the benchmark. As in the days of Prohibition, the door is unmarked, and you'll need reservations (or a password) to get in. It's well worth registering on the website (www.bourbonandbranch.com) to gain access to this delightfully old-school drinking den and its discerning menu of fine whiskies, tequilas, rums and clever cocktails. Everything's beautifully served, too – super-gingery Moscow Mules come in traditional copper mugs. Look out for the anonymous entrance on Jones Street...
Expertly mixed cocktails, gourmet hors d’oeuvres and cool DJs have made this lush boutique lounge bar in Union Square one of San Francisco’s most talked about new venues.
Bar decor doesn’t get much more impressively glamorous than that in the Clift hotel’s Redwood Room on Geary Street. Go to lounge, drink and seduce, or simply gaze slack-jawed at the Starck furnishings and vast expanse of polished Redwood-tree panelling – legend has it the bar was carved from a single tree trunk.
Next-door to Foreign Cinema on Mission Street, this multi-level DJ bar will furnish you with pre- or post-dinner cocktails till 2am.
The Mandarin Oriental's luxe bar on Sansome Street provides a romantic, upscale setting for sipping cocktails with small plates of food to share.
©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith
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