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Boutique hotels in Napa Valley

Holidays in Napa Valley, United States

Napa Valley Overview

United States

Countryside
Californian vineyards
Country life
Wine and dine

Producing some of the best food and wine in the United States, the rolling hills of the Napa Valley and nearby Sonoma are a magnet for gourmands and wine lovers.

The vineyards may not be as extensive and the wineries not as grand as their European counterparts, but what Napa lacks in old-world traditions it makes up for with warmth and informality. Forget about snooty sommeliers and their pompous pretensions; here wine tasting is always a pleasure rather than a trial. With impeccable French-inspired cuisine, a benign climate and some beautiful scenery it’s hardly surprising that San Franciscans flock here year-round for some refined R’n’R.

Naturally Napa Valley

Yountville is to Napa Valley what Bray is to Berkshire: bursting with culinary excellence. Thrice-Michelin-starred chef Thomas Keller’s restaurant the French Laundry (+1 707 944 2380) has a mighty reputation and a waiting list to match. Skip the wait at Keller’s informal Yountville bistro, Bouchon (+1 707 944 8037); reserve an alfresco table and fill up on flawless French-flavoured fruits de mer. No room? Buy still-warm bread from Bouchon Bakery (+1 707 944 1565) next-door.

Local knowledge

Taxis
Black Tie Taxi (+1 707 259 1000) operates 24 hours a day and serves the entire Napa Valley area. Keep their number handy, in case you get too tipsy to drive home.

Tipping culture
15–20 per cent is usual for almost every conceivable service – if in doubt, tip.

Packing tips
If you plan on hiring a convertible to breeze through the vineyards in, bring a headscarf or cap unless you want to arrive looking windswept and ‘interesting’. A pair of sunglasses is a good idea, to dim the dazzling light on those mornings after you’ve overindulged.

Recommended reads
Napa Valley: The Ultimate Winery Guide by Antonia Allegra and Richard Gillette; The Silverado Squatters by Robert Louis Stevenson; East of Eden by John Steinbeck.

Cuisine
Napa Valley is serious gastro territory, with some of the most sophisticated and delicious food in the States, much of it organic. There’s a strong emphasis on French cuisine – this is definitely one place where you won’t be offered ‘Freedom fries’. As you’d expect, there’s also a big emphasis on Californian wines, too. For some expert cookery demonstrations, visit the prestigious Culinary Institute of America’s California campus in St Helena (www.ciachef.edu).

Currency
US dollar.

Time zone
GMT -8.

Dialling codes
United States: 1. The area code for the Napa and Sonoma valleys is 707.

Do go/don't go
The exciting autumn harvest is known locally as ‘the Crush’. You might want to time your visit and go just after or just before, when the weather is perfect and the crowds less madding.

Don't go home without

… noticing that not all natural wonders come in bunches: Napa boasts a forest of petrified redwoods (www.petrifiedforest.org); and Calistoga is home to one of only three ‘old faithfuls’ in the world, a geyser that erupts with reassuring regularity. Try a volcanic mud bath while you’re in town (www.calistogaspas.com); it’s more edifying.


Napa Valley Hotels

£ $

Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Napa Valley


Calistoga Ranch

Napa Valley, United States

Style
Ravishing ranch retreat

Setting
Cosy Californian canyon

Rich, polished cedar woods, enchanting valley views, fine Californian wine, soothing outdoor spa pools – just listing the treats on offer at Calistoga Ranch makes our eyes glaze over. Or maybe that’s the Merlot...

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The Carneros Inn

Napa Valley, United States

Style
Modernist home on the range

Setting
California's bucolic pastures new

This award-winning Napa Valley boutique resort offers a bold vision: the region's tin-roofed barns have inspired an unpretentious modern 'agri-chic' aesthetic that marries cowhide with Le Corbusier, and you'll be hard pushed to find a warmer welcome anywhere in the world than at The Carneros Inn.

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Poetry Inn

Napa Valley, United States

Style
Cosseting contemporary country retreat

Setting
Hillside perch in rolling vineyards

Sip fine wine on Poetry Inn's private terrace and drink in the soothing views at this secluded and intimate Napa Valley retreat, a boutique B&B in the charming Stags Leap District that feels more like a stylish private residence than a stuffy hotel.

Check availability

Milliken Creek Inn & Spa

Napa Valley, United States

Style
Classic country casual

Setting
A river runs through it

A secluded spa hideaway just off Napa’s Silverado Trail, Milliken Creek Inn & Spa is a cosy Californian bed and breakfast offering low-key luxury amid lush riverside lawns.

Check availability



Getting there

Holidays in Napa Valley, United States

Don't know how to get to Napa Valley? Whether you want to fly, drive or float in by hot-air balloon, we tell you the best way, with local travel tips, too.

Planes
Direct flights from the UK land at San Francisco’s International Airport (www.flysfo.com), which is a little more than an hour’s drive from the southern end of the valley.
Trains
You can dine as you admire the splendid scenery if you travel on the somewhat touristy Napa Valley Wine Train that runs the length of the valley (www.winetrain.com); you’ll still have to drive from San Francisco, though.
Automobiles
A car is ideal for getting around the valley, and handy for getting here in the first place, although during the autumn harvest the main roads can crawl with tourist traffic. All the same, this is great driving country; treat yourself to a convertible and let the wind rush through your hair.

Boutique hotels in Napa Valley

Holidays in Napa Valley, United States

Napa Valley Activities

Highlights Napa Valley's best attractions, from wine-tasting to horse riding – there are plenty of gentle pursuits to tempt you.

Worth getting out of bed for

Napa Valley itinerary
More…

Viewpoint
Feast your eyes at Auberge du Soleil’s restaurant (+1 707 967 3111) in Rutherford: the interiors are a bit dated, but if it’s a clear day and you snag a table outside, you can have a perfect lunch with far-yonder vistas. Or ride the sky tram at Sterling Vineyards in Calistoga (+1 800 726 6136; www.sterlingvineyards.com) for a bird’s eye view of the vines.

Arts and culture
There are almost 300 wineries to choose from; reservations are often essential. Friendly and informative tastings are offered at Del Dotto’s caves (www.deldottovineyards.com) near Calistoga, while the views are a real bonus at Pride Mountain (www.pridewines.com). Connoisseurs should head for Swanson (www.swansonvineyards.com) in the Oakville District; the exclusive Altamura winery (www.altamura.com) in Wooden Valley; or Kuleto Estate (www.kuletoestate.com) in St Helena. Antique Tours Limousine Service (+1 707 226 9227) offes tours by knowledgeable guides in a classic 1940s Packard convertible.

Something for nothing
Combine culture with quaffing at Clos Pegase in Calistoga (+1 707 942 4981; www.clospegase.com), a postmodern temple to art and wine. Free guided tours of its grounds and winery are given daily at 11.30am and 2pm.

Shopping
There are some excellent farmers’ markets in Napa Valley during the summer months, selling organic local produce as well as wine. Check out Yountville’s on Washington Street (Wednesday afternoons), St Helena’s at Crane Park (Friday mornings) and Calistoga’s on Lincoln Avenue (Saturday mornings). Lincoln Avenue has various arts and crafts shops, otherwise the downtown area of St Helena has more upscale boutiques.

Daytripper
Napa Valley is a day trip from San Francisco. If you fancy something a little more sedate than the bright lights of the Bay Area, head north to the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County. Paddle gently downstream in a Soar canoe past apple orchards and stands of giant redwoods, stopping for the occasional dip, with Healdsburg-based Russian River Adventures (+1 707 433 5599; www.soar1.com).

Perfect picnic
We think you can manage to source some bottled beverages by yourself. But you’ll be in need of a caffeine hit after your umpteenth weak filter coffee: stop at speciality food store Oakville Grocery on St Helena Highway (+1 707 944 8802) for espressos and pastries. Pick up some of their delicious deli snacks and picnic fixings, and head to Bale Grist Mill or Bothe-Napa Valley State Park.

Walks
If you like hiking, the summit of Mount St Helena offers incredible far-reaching views that stretch up to 200 miles on a good day. The five-mile trail is accessible near Calistoga from Robert Louis Stevenson State Park (www.parks.ca.gov); you’ll need sturdy boots and plenty of stamina.

Activities
There’s a lot to do in the Napa Valley apart from wine tasting. It’s wonderful to drift above the vineyards in a hot-air balloon; try Balloons Above the Valley (www.balloonrides.com). You can hire a bike and cycle around the Napa or Sonoma valleys, sampling the wines as you go – Getaway Adventures organises group tours (www.getawayadventures.com) – or enjoy the scenery on horseback (www.triplecreekhorseoutfit.com). There are some natural wonders in the valley that you shouldn’t miss either: there’s a geyser in Calistoga that regularly erupts every 20–30 minutes (www.oldfaithfulgeyser.com), one of only three in the world; and a petrified forest of three-million-year-old redwoods, too (www.petrifiedforest.org).

And...
Can't decide which winery to visit? The Vintner's Collective (www.vintnerscollective.com) in Napa offers tastings of wine from 20 Valley winemakers. It's $25 to sample six of the best. Smith members can get discounts and free tastings.

Diary

Late January–March Hot stuff is on the agenda at the Mustard Festival, a celebration of the valley’s wine and food, as well as the wild mustard that carpets the vineyards (www.mustardfestival.org). Late July–early August Kino meets vino at the Wine Country Film Festival, with evening screenings in the vineyards (www.winecountryfilmfest.com). Early August Violins out for Music in the Vineyards – a string of chamber music concerts (www.napavalleymusic.com).


Boutique hotels in Napa Valley

Holidays in Napa Valley, United States

Napa Valley
Eating, drinking and dancing

The wines are world-famous, and the dining's fine, too – here's our pick of the best cafés, bars and restaurants in Napa Valley. If you're after exciting nightlife, San Francisco is little more than an hour away; Napa nights in contrast are best spent quietly with a fine vintage in hand.

Cafés

(+1 707 252 0285)

The Soda Canyon Store

Just outside Napa, this grocery has an amazing ‘deli fax’ – have your hotel put your sandwich order in and pick up your picnic snacks on your way past.

4006 Silverado Trail, Napa, California

(+1 707 944 8802)

The Oakville Grocery

You’ll be in need of a decent coffee after your umpteenth uninspiring filter coffee: make a pit stop at this great speciality food store on St Helena Highway for fantastic espressos and pastries to go, and delicious picnic makings.

7856 St Helena Highway, Oakville, California

(+1 707 963 8192)

The Model Bakery

This little bakery on St Helena's Main Street has delicious sandwiches made to order on freshly baked bread, pizza, salads and soups; there’s also Valhrona chocolate gelato, in case you need an afternoon treat.

1357 Main Street, St Helena, California

(+1 707 963 4444)

Tra Vigne Cantinetta

This tiny (and slightly touristy) Italian bar in St Helena has Seria A football on the TV and plates of food to share (salami platter, Panini, lasagne – you get the picture).

1050 Charter Oak Avenue, St Helena, California

Restaurants

(+1 707 967 0550)

Press

A carnivore's paradise, this bright modern restaurant serves impeccable dry-aged, grass-fed, hand-cut beef, mostly served for two to share, with a raw bar providing the freshest of fresh lobster, oysters and shrimp to satisfy the seafood quotient. Its owner is the vintner behind Napa Valley's Rudd winery, and Press's wine list is predictably impressive.

587 St Helena Highway South, St Helena, CA 94574

(+1 707 944 2380)

French Laundry

Chef extraordinaire Thomas Keller’s famed Napa restaurant is an unforgettable gastronomic treat; the set menu may start at $240 a head, but that doesn’t deter visitors: you’ll still have to book a month or two in advance.

6640 Washington Street, Yountville, Napa, California

(+1 707 963 3799)

Market

This St Helena restaurant uses seasonal produce to create the dishes on its classic American menu. It’s a nice spot for a casual lunch and its raw bar has delicious oysters; the bar here is good, too.

1347 Main Street, St Helena, Napa, California

(+1 707 944 2424)

Mustards Grill

This is a Napa Valley institution with a bustling atmosphere and a French/American bistro menu of tasty burgers, fresh fish and tea-smoked duck.

7399 St Helena Highway, Napa Valley, California

(+1 707 944 8037)

Bouchon

Modelled on a traditional Lyon bistro, Bouchon has a fine Gallic menu, a proper zinc bar, sexy banquettes, mosaic flooring and hand-painted mural by acclaimed French artist Paulin Paris. It’s a younger, sexier (and more affordable) sister restaurant to French Laundry up the road.

6534 Washington Street, Yountville, Napa, California

(+1 707 224 6328)

Cole’s Chop House

Regarded by many as the best steakhouse in the area, Cole's has a wine list that’s as good as its beef.

1122 Main Street, Napa, California

(+1 707 252 8115)

Angèle

Enjoy this intimate restaurant and bar's French-influenced menu with views over the Napa River; head here on Friday nights for lively atmosphere and great food.

540 Main Street, Napa, California



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