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A historic hilly city bounded by the Atlantic and surrounded by the leafy landscapes of New England, the capital of Massachusetts is a melting pot of culture, architecture and cuisine. Breathtakingly beautiful bridges sweep across the Charles River from Boston central to Cambridge, home of Harvard University. Downtown, a gentle mix of glass high-rises jostle for position among a hodge-podge of grandiose landmarks and stately low-rises. Beyond the bustle of the port, genteel neighbourhoods such as Beacon Hill, Back Bay and South End harbour green gardens, picturesque parks and serene squares, linked by cobblestone streets and red-brick paving. It’s a compact city, easily navigated on foot, and one that’s made for stumbling upon cute corner cake shops and cafes, curious little boutiques and keep-to-yourself restaurants.
Boston lays a strong claim to being the most Irish city in America – and it has the pubs to prove it. Thanks to a wave of immigration in the colonial era, there’s a huge Irish-Catholic population, ensuring that when it comes to celebrating St Patrick’s Day, Boston is the best place in the States to be, kicking off the party with a huge parade of floats and bands starting at the Broadway T station in ‘Southie’.
…taking a short trip up the Massachussets coast for slap-up seafood at a lobster shack. Pack a bottle of wine and stop at one of the dozens of low-key pier-side seafood spots that dot the coast and sample some of the freshest, most delicious lobster you’ll find anywhere, pot-boiled alfresco in front of you.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Boston
Set in a peaceful, leafy stretch of Boston’s historic centre, XV Beacon hotel hides original cage elevators, art deco furnishings and impeccably friendly service behind a beautiful Beaux Arts façade.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
April For seven years, Boston’s Independent Film Festival (www.iffboston.org) has been showcasing the latest and greatest home-grown cinema, with a strong empahasis on documentaries. April–September The Red Sox step up to the plate for baseball season at Fenway Park. April–November Humpback, Minke and Finback Whales gather around the harbour; Boston Harbour Cruises (www.bostonharborcruises.com/boston-whale-watch) runs three-hour whale-watching trips throughout the season. August–September 150 comedians from around the globe come to town to extract giggles at Boston’s International Comedy and Music Festival. (www.bostoncomedyfestival.com). November Winter sees the frog pond on Boston Common (www.bostoncommonfrogpond.org) transform into a natural ice rink and the city’s wannabe whirlers and twirlers take to their skates. December The Boston Ballet’s annual performance of The Nutcracker (www.bostonballet.org/nutcracker) is a much-loved highlight of the Christmas calendar – and knocks the socks off panto.
Wizardly pastries, marvellous muffins, tantalising tarts and sticky buns to rave about; Flour’s owner Joanne satisfies the city’s sweet tooth with her prolific pastry-making. For lunch, the crusty baguettes and zingy soups are a must.
1595 Washington Street, Boston, MA 02118
Everything a good day-with-the-papers café should have is here in abundance: cupcakes, cookies, coffee and bagels by the bucketload.
314 Shawmut Avenue, Boston, MA 02118
An ideal stop-off for a cool canteen-style pasta lunch – or to pick up pastry treats from its cornucopian bakery counter – this trattoria-inspired café is located just upstairs from Drink bar; handy for post-prandial cocktails.
348 Congress Street, Boston, MA 02210
A series of exquisite, traditionally designed dining rooms with an edge of modernity, L’Espalier has bagged countless awards for its New England-inspired French cuisine. There are four rooms in which to sample its wide-ranging menus, excellent wines and vast cheese selection – the Library is our favourite.
774 Boylston Street, Boston, MA 02199
As close to Barcelona as Boston gets, this convincingly Spanish tapas restaurant is a nibbler’s fantasy with huge menus of Iberian favourites, such as boquerones, garlic prans an seared foie gras, an all-Spanish wine list, and an ever-jovial atmosphere. Pass around the cava porron and settle in for a lengthy banquet.
1704 Washington Street, Boston, MA 02118
A swarming point for the city’s sophisticated set, Sonsie is a classic dark woody brasserie with an Italianate menu that leans towards mouth-watering pizzas and foccacia.
327 Newbury Street, Boston, MA 02115
With its Hollywoodesque hideaway booths, vaulted ceiling and bronze chandeliers, this is a classic gentlemen’s steakhouse, unfussily decked out with red and black leather booths and banquettes.
793 Boylston Street, Boston, MA 02116
Bisected by a chunky wooden table lined with fresh foccacia and olive oils, this Italian hotspot is a bright and simple space where diners devour pasta and seafood prepared with the freshest seasonal ingredients.
793 Boylston Street, Boston, MA 02116
This banquette-lined Back Bay brasserie serves good-value classic French dishes, such as confit, steak-frites, and cassoulet – as well as a selection of iced lobster and oysters – in an informal setting.
159 Newbury Street, Boston, MA 02116
Built into the basement of a quaint red brick house, this subterranean seafood spot is famed for its Maine lobster rolls and fried oysters. There’s also a great garden patio outside for the summer-season snacking.
550 Tremont Street, Boston, MA 02116
The beefier brother establishment to B&G Oysters combines a fully functioning butcher’s shop with an atmospheric exposed-brick dining room where you can sample the prime cuts on offer. The deliciously meaty menu has little to appeal to vegetarians, but then, if you’re a vegetarian there’s not a chance you’ll be dining here.
550 Tremont Street, Boston, MA 02116
Hailed as the best raw food bar in the city, Neptune has the decor of a Parisian bistro but in place of steak-frites you’ll find lobster and clams. The combination of a no-reservation policy, limited space and amazing food make visiting a gamble, but when it pays off, it really pays off.
63 Salem Street, Boston, MA 02113
A standard-bearer for Bostonian fine dining, illustrious restaurateur Barbara Lynch’s first outlet offers a fine selection of freshly prepared Mediterranean dishes, together with an exciting seven-course tasting menu.
9 Park Street, Boston, MA 02108
In addition to the Kobe beef and fine filet mignon on offer at the XV Beacon hotel’s modern mushroom-toned steakhouse restaurant, you can enjoy a fantastic selection of lobster, stone crab and oysters.
15 Beacon Street, Boston, MA 02108
Surreptitiously secreted down a cobbled alleyway in an old fire station, this contemporary Japanese joint is the much beloved culinary offspring of an absurdly talented husband and wife team. Tim, a Nobu-trained restaurant consultant and his team of chefs create fabulous sushi and sashimi, as well as delectable cooked seafood and wagyu beef.
9 East Street, Boston, MA 02111
A grand and glam dining room for a full-on French fine dining experience, with floor-to-ceiling windows, pale green banquettes and artfully exposed stone walls, creating a faintly Provencal vibe.
223 Columbus Avenue, Boston, MA 02116
Set up to evoke an old theatre with chandeliers, red velour curtains and exposed brick, this live jazz venue is gritty, industrial, a little bizarre, and totally charming. If you don’t want to sit in the thick of the musicians, there’s a brasserie-style bar off to one side with extra tables.
541 Tremont Street, Boston, MA 02116
A minimalist club lounge with a laid-back atmosphere, this ascending star of the Boston music scene lures in international DJ stars and, with a respectable lunchtime menu and a variety of tempting bar snacks, doubles as a more than serviceable snacking station.
315 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, MA 02139
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