Printable destination guide

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Boutique hotels in Harrogate

Self-catering properties in Harrogate

Harrogate Overview

United Kingdom

Cityscape
Genteel Georgian spa town
City life
High tea and boutique sprees

There's more to Harrogate than Bettys tea rooms and Farrah's toffee; as well as being a green-fingered garden of earthly delights and heritage spa destination, it's the gateway to the beautiful Yorkshire Dales.

Harrogate also lays claim to the title 'antiques centre of the north', and there's knick-knack browsing aplenty to punctuate gentle afternoon strolls across the Stray or through the RHS gardens; refuel with a slap-up high tea at one of the town's many cake-focused establishments. Don't make the mistake of thinking things are stuffy round here, though: the high-fashion boutiques, top-notch restaurants, retro interiors shops and on-the-pulse organic delis provide more than enough amusement for hard-to-please urban escapees…

Highly Harrogate

No visit to Harrogate is complete without a visit to Bettys tea rooms. The queues may look offputting, but once you're inside, the towering cake stands and delicate brews will have you by the heartstrings. Traditionalists won't be able to resist the classic 'tea for two', with delicate finger sandwiches, scones with jam and cream, and cakes of toothache-inducing sweetness; however, since menus give the best of Yorkshire a Swiss twist, rebels might prefer a melting gruyere rösti and a glass of Gewürtztraminer, followed by a Matterhorn sundae.

Local knowledge

Taxis
Harrogate is easy to navigate on foot, but if you want a taxi, there are ranks outside the station and at the War Memorial. Otherwise, try Yellow Line taxis on 01423 521531.

Tipping culture
Service is not generally included and many of the smaller cafés and shops don't take cards, so bring plenty of cash and factor in a tip on the generous side of 10 per cent.

Siesta and Fiesta
There's not much in the way of late-night action in Harrogate, and the latest late-night drink you'll be served will probably be at your hotel. Sundays are slow, with many restaurants closing by 9pm – or closed altogether.

Packing tips
Bring swimwear if you want to try out Harrogate's hammam – the 19th-century Turkish alternative to the traditional spa. Twitchers walking in the Pinewoods will want their binoculars for spotting lapwing and curlews, and light-fingered gardeners may want a few freezer bags for surreptitiously snipped cuttings. Walking/cycling gear for exploring the Dales.

Recommended reads
Book of Matches and All Points Northby Simon Armitage; Wuthering Heights by Emily Brontë; Alan Bennett's Dinner at Noon.

Cuisine
Tradition, tradition and more tradition: this part of the country is a staunch sticker to British classics, including roast beef and (what else?) Yorkshire pudding. But increasingly, these once-stodgy staples are being given an artisan makeover, with farm-fresh, top-quality ingredients and modern interpretations. Head for a tea room for the sarnies-and-scones afternoon classic, or try a warm Yorkshire 'fat rascal' – a large, fruity scone packed with citrus peel, almonds and cherries. Apart from the famous Farrah's of Harrogate toffee, other regional specialities include Wensleydale cheese and Masham sausages. Seek out local delicacies at the monthly farmers' market (usually on the second Thursday of the month); in the Cheeseboard of Harrogate on Commercial Street (01423 508837), where you'll find more than 200 varieties; or at the excellent deli-café Weeton's, on West Park (01423 507100).

Currency
Pound sterling (£).

Time zone
GMT.

Dialling codes
UK country code: +44. Harrogate: 01423.

Do go/don't go
Catch the gardens of Harrogate in all their glory in spring: late April sees a riot of blooms on display for the Harrogate Spring Flower Show. But, come prepared with just-in-case waterproofs, and any time of year's a pleasure.

Don't go home without

… checking out what a real fishmonger should look like: Ramus Seafood Emporium at 136 Kings Road (+44 (0)1423 563271; www.ramus.co.uk) is a lesson in fishy perfection from its smoked salmon to its barracuda fillets.


Harrogate Hotels

£ $

Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Harrogate


The Balmoral Hotel

Harrogate, United Kingdom

Style
Opulent Victorian manor

Setting
Leafy spa-town backstreets

With Victorian architecture, Edwardian antiques and strikingly contemporary furnishings all clamouring for the attention, The Balmoral Hotel in Harrogate mixes past and present with boldness and flair.

Book now



Getting there

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

Planes
Leeds Bradford International Airport (www.lbia.co.uk) is a 25-minute drive from Harrogate; Manchester Airport (www.manchesterairport.co.uk) is 90 minutes away – both have good national and international flight connections.
Trains
Harrogate is well connected to the rest of the country on Northern Rail lines from York or Leeds. The National Express East Coast train (www.nationalexpresseastcoast.com) from London King's Cross to York takes a little over two hours; it's then a pleasant half an hour ride to Harrogate station. Edinburgh is two and a half hours from York by train.
Automobiles
From the South, take the M1 towards Sheffield and then the M18; from the North, the A1(M) connects Harrogate to Glasgow. If you're planning to stay in Harrogate itself, a car will be of no use to you, but if you want to explore North Yorkshire and the Dales, you'll have more freedom with your own wheels.

Boutique hotels in Harrogate

Self-catering properties in Harrogate

Harrogate Activities

Highlights the best Harrogate has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

Worth getting out of bed for

Harrogate itinerary
More…

Viewpoint
Hotel du Vin Harrogate offers great views across the Stray common from some rooms and suites, but if you're not checked into one of those, head for high ground in the Pinewoods: about half-way along the walk from Valley Gardens to RHS Harlow Carr, there are gorgeous vistas of sheep-dotted pastures and the Nidderdale region, stretching all the way from the Pennines in the west to the North York Moors in the east.

Arts and culture
The Mercer Art Gallery (01423 556188), set in an 1806 spa building – the town’s oldest – on Swan Road, contains a collection of fine art and occasional exhibitions; see www.harrogate.gov.uk/museums. The nearby Pump House Museum on Crown Place (01423 556188) is a bite-sized insight into Harrogate’s boom era as a genteel spa destination, with a scary array of Victorian ‘spa’ equipment. You can also take the waters, although we suggest you don’t attempt this if you’re in any way hungover: Europe’s most sulphurous mineral water smells of past-their-best boiled eggs and is super-salty to boot.

Something for nothing
Hit Harrogate at the right time of year and there'll be beautiful blooms wherever you cast your eyes: this town takes its gardening seriously. The Valley Gardens – a 17-acre Grade II-listed park with woodlands – are soil saint Alan Titchmarsh's favourite public gardens, and they're free to visit (unlike RHS Garden Harlow Carr, which is splendid, but charges a £6 entry fee).

Shopping
The Montpellier Quarter has interiors shops to delight antiques collectors and modernists alike: Rasmus at 12–13 Royal Parade (01423 560050) has a buy-me-now assortment of glamorous lighting and contemporary furniture; Montpellier Parade is a good kicking off point for a treasure hunt in the fine art and period furnishings shops. James Street has boutiques such as Cruise, Space NK, LK Bennet et al, but we prefer independent shops like Lynx at 12 and 20 West Park for clothes; Cimmermann at 10 Regent Parade for vintage furniture and contemporary design (01423 524777); and old-school gentlemen's cobbler JN Walker on Russell Street (01423 879738).

Daytripper
A short train ride will take you to Knaresborough, a charming market town overlooking the River Nidd. Explore the mediaeval castle, maybe take a boat downriver, and enjoy the pretty views. If you've a car and fancy exploring further afield, a jaunt round Nidderdale – an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty – and finding Yorkshire villages such as Pateley Bridge on the way – makes a lovely day out. Pateley Bridge is also home to the Oldest Sweet Shop in England; at 39 High Street, you'll find a gobstopping array of old-school favourites and traditional sweets in giant jars (www.oldestsweetshop.co.uk). Aniseed balls, pear drops and humbugs… yum.

Perfect picnic
Pick up supplies from Weeton's (we love the pies and cold meats), then strike out across the Stray to find your perfect picnic patch.

Walks
The Dales Way stretches for 84 miles from Ilkley down to the shores of Windermere in the Lake District, passing through some beautiful countryside. A 20-mile link trail from Harrogate joins the Way at Bolton Abbey, across the Barden Moors – visit www.dalesway.org.uk for more details. For an easier stroll, the Pinewoods offer a pleasant afternoon's pottering with green and pleasant views.

Children
The Pump Room Museum has child-friendly exhibits, as well as colouring tables and dressing-up boxes with Victorian hats and flouncy skirts for the younger ones (although Mr & Mrs Smith couldn't resist the frilly bonnets). Aspiring chefs aged 8–16 can learn the tricks of the trade at Bettys Cookery School during school holidays (www.bettyscookeryschool.co.uk). More active kids can burn energy in Valley Gardens, where there are bookable tennis courts, crazy golf and ping-pong tables.

Activities
Get glowing at the Turkish Baths & Health Spa – this restored 19th-century hammam's the perfect retreat on a gruesome grey day; go through the Tepidarium, Calidarium and Laconium hot rooms and then have a dip in the plunge pool to refresh and reinvigorate. There are single-sex and couples’ sessions (01423 556746; www.harrogate.gov.uk). Perfect your pastry or sharpen up your knife techniques: there are demonstrations and courses at the cookery school attached to Bettys tea rooms (www.bettyscookeryschool.co.uk). Run riot on the Stray – just bring a kite/frisbee/energetic pooch with you. Harrogate Theatre hosts arts and drama throughout the year on its Victorian stage (www.harrogatetheatre.co.uk). There’s a varied programme of concerts and events at Harrogate International Centre (0845 130 8840); recent visiting artists have included Jools Holland and the Moscow City Ballet.

Diary

Late April The Harrogate Spring Flower Show at the Great Yorkshire Showground sees the whole town blossom into life (www.flowershow.org.uk). May The prestigious Harrogate Antique & Fine Art Fair brings the country's best wheeler dealers to town (www.harrogateantiquefair.com). July Prize bulls, sheep racing, showjumping, flowers, food and more at the Great Yorkshire Show (www.greatyorkshireshow.com). September Mid-month sees summer's last gasp with floral displays and autumn foliage at the Harrogate Autumn Flower Show (www.flowersho.org.uk). The dealers roll out their wares again towards the end of the month for the second Harrogate Antique Fair of the year (www.harrogateantiquefair.com).


Boutique hotels in Harrogate

Self-catering properties in Harrogate

Harrogate
Eating, drinking and dancing

We've tracked down the best cafés and tea rooms, the finest dining restaurants and the cosiest local pubs in Harrogate. All you have to do is decide whether you prefer mint tea or Montrachet…

Cafés

(+44 (0)1423 507100)

Weeton's

Ah, Weeton's. Three magic words: hot pork pies. This deli par excellence will have you cooing in wonder over its fantastic range of local and organic produce, its amazing cuts of meat, its tangy cheeses and freshly baked pies. There's also a small sit-in café, where you can scoff BLTs made with grilled free-range, dry-cured bacon; Yorkshire rare beef and red onion sandwiches; and sticky toffee pudding (plenty of healthy, vegetarian options, too). You can even have a glass of wine (www.weetons.com).

23–24 West Park, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG1 1BJ

(+44 (0)1423 502746)

Bettys Café Tea Room

The mother of British tea rooms, with an eccentric Swiss twist and a menu to satisfy even the pickiest of teatime eaters (and coffee addicts). Kick the day off with a full English breakfast, fill a brunchtime hole with a Swaledale cheese omelette, lunch on Alpine macaroni or smoked salmon rösti, and round things off with cream tea for two, finger sandwiches 'n' all. Jolly good show.

1 Parliament Street, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG1 2QU

(+44 (0)1423 566122)

Wild Ginger

This impeccable vegetarian bistro apparently does a fantastic vegan cooked breakfast – everything that goes on plates here is pure organic loveliness. Great smoothies and veggie burgers, too.

5 Station Parade, Harrogate HG1 1UF, North Yorkshire

Restaurants

(+44 (0)1423 502650)

Drum & Monkey

This restaurant is a Harrogate institution; it won't win any awards for its interiors, but it has won many fans for its excellent seafood menu. Book ahead for an evening of gentleman's club classics, from smoked salmon pâté and lobster bisque to Dover sole and grilled king scallops, or sit at the old-school bar with Pacific oysters and champagne.

Montpellier Gardens, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG1 2TF

(+44 (0)1423 856800)

Hotel du Vin Bistro

Modern European dishes served with flair in a relaxed bistro setting, plus tip-top wine list - make friends with your sommelier and be blown away by the flights of wine on offer. Pitch up a little early and have a few cocktails at the equally well-stocked bar first, or taste wines from drawn direct from the cellar by the Cruvinet machine.

Prospect Place, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG1 1LB

(+44 (0)1423 508762)

The Courtyard Restaurant

Tucked away eaterie that's pleasant for a light alfresco lunch in summer or an early supper; Nidderdale lamb and beef features frequently on the menu, as all ingredients are seasonal and sourced as locally as possible. Closed Sundays.

1 Montpellier Mews, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG1 2TQ

(+44 (0)1423 871350)

The Clocktower

This hotel restaurant just outside Harrogate is worth a visit just for the decor: there's a 400-year-old Spanish olive tree in the conservatory, a pink chandelier in the dining room, and 27-foot limestone bar. On top of that, the menu is a fascinating blend of cuisines, the hallmark of which is the Yorkshire Tapas menu. Food is seasonal and locally sourced, so your Nidderdale lamb and Whitby smoked haddock may well be served with English wine.

Rudding Park, Follifoot, Harrogate HG3 1JH, North Yorkshire

(0)1423 508208

The Harrogate Grille

Sister establishment to the Hoxton Grille, this suave modern bistro serves cunning blend of classic French and English dishes.

Franklin Mount, Harrogate, HG1 5EJ

Bars and clubs

(+44 (0)1423 526841)

Hg1 Bar & Brasserie

Snazzy-looking conversion bar on popular pedestrianised street, with updated pub classics on the menu (gourmet burgers; haddock and chips; panini; you get the idea). Good for low-key lunch or a couple of drinks.

John Street, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG1 1JZ

Pubs

(+44 (0)1423 725570)

Hales Bar

An old-fashioned gas-lit ale house with Victorian fittings and leather Chesterfield-style booth seating. Weekly guest ales include Daleside Bitter and Blonde; Black Sheep Bitter and Bass and Tetley Cask Ale. Enjoy a proper pub meal, surrounded by slightly sinister cases of stuffed fowl (we're sure the gulls were looking at us strangely).

1 Crescent Road, Harrogate HG1 2RS, North Yorkshire



©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith