For more information and to book please visit www.mrandmrssmith.com or let us arrange your whole trip, by calling +44 (0)20 8987 4312 or from the USA dial 1 866 610 3867.
Whether you’re drawn in by the tartan heritage of the cobbled Royal Mile, the New Town’s graciously elegant Georgian façades or the ever-visible Castle, from whichever angle you look at it, Edinburgh is a knockout. But while it may have the highest concentration of listed buildings in the world, this northern capital is not just for looking at: with an international arts calendar and more booksellers per capita than any other British city, its reputation for refinement and culture is richly deserved. Whether you lose yourself in the Old Town wynds – narrow, crooked paths between houses – linger over a wee dram in the cosy pubs of Cockburn Street or tuck into the catch of the day at one of up-and-coming Leith’s waterfront restaurants, you’ll find satisfaction. Guaranteed.
Political devolution in Scotland has provided the capital with its most innovative and controversial modern landmark: Holyrood, the concrete, wood and water-featured parliament building at the foot of the Royal Mile. When the MSPs are in session, you can sit in on a debate for free. That’s open government for you (www.scottish.parliament.uk).
… acquiring a taste for whisky. If hanging around Old Town pubs hasn’t worked, a distillery visit may well do the trick. Check out the entire barley-to-alcohol transformation at Glenkinchie Distillery (+44 (0)1875 342004), home of the Edinburgh Malt in the rolling East Lothian countryside.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Edinburgh
Tigerlily has thrown the boutique-hotel rule book out the window, working a bright, modern and luxe theme with mosaic mirror tiles, silver, white and glass. And that’s just the reception…
A matchbox marvel of a B&B where hosts outnumber guestrooms, Millers64 has canny interiors that blend original Victorian features with Orient-inspired minimalism – and its full Scottish breakfasts are more than worth getting up for.
Rick's is really a designer bar with ten contemporary rooms rather than a hotel – idea for a cool and lively stay in Edinburgh – a city that knows how to enjoy itself.
The Chester Residence in Edinburgh has luxury hotel suites across three elegant townhouses: here, sleek neutral decor and Georgian frills cohabit in harmony.
Be king of the castle and stay at the Rutland Hotel, which overlooks the city’s citadel and boasts a plum location, bold decor and majestic wining and dining.
This cheap-chic bed and breakfast in Edinburgh has a unique warmth and personality. The charming, high-ceilinged rooms provide the perfect base.
Overnighting at One Royal Circus is like staying at an impossibly cool friend’s townhouse, without having to be charming to the friend. This grand bed and breakfast (B&B in this case standing for ‘bed of roses and breakfast of champions’) is also perfectly located on a classic Georgian crescent.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
25 January Burns Night, when the populace tucks into haggis, neeps and tatties, toasting the Scottish Bard (www.rabbie-burns.com). March Ceilidh Culture Festival honours Scottish music and song (www.ceilidhculture.co.uk). April Science Festival disguises learning with lots of ‘ah-haa’ moments (www.sciencefestival.co.uk). On April 30, Beltane Fire is the all-night festival on Calton Hill. June Leith Festival, for open houses, concerts and exhibitions (www.leithfestival.com). July Edinburgh Jazz & Blues Festival (www.edinburghjazzfestival.co.uk). August The Edinburgh Festival colonises the town, along with the Fringe (comedy, plays aplenty), Book and International Film Festivals (www.edinburgh-festivals.com). See our events guide Smith 52 for details, or buy the book for the full insider lowdown. 31 August–1 September Edinburgh Mela: Asian festival in Pilrig Park. 29 December–1 January Edinburgh’s legendary four-day New Year’s celebrations, better known as Hogmanay (also featured in our events guide, Smith 52; www.edinburghshogmanay.org).
For organic haggis, clapshot mash and leek cream, head to this deli-café, an emphasis-on-food haven with a distinct Nordic feel. Every ingredient used has upstanding eco credentials, being either locally sourced or Fairtrade. You’ll have to queue, but it’s worth it. They’ll also prepare picnics on request.
121 Hanover Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DJ
Sophisticated deli-cum-restaurant that wizards fresh Scottish produce into Spanish tapas, spicy Cantonese and so on. Also a good spot for coffee – grab a table on the decking if it’s a sunny day.
15 North West Circus Place, Edinburgh EH3 6SX
For those times when nothing but a ‘refained’ afternoon tea – taken while enjoying the strains of a live harpist – will do.
The Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, Edinburgh EH2 2EQ
Rich coffee, gooey cakes and all things French-flavoured. Diet another day.
8–10 St Giles Street, Edinburgh EH1 1PT
Edinburgh’s pre-eminent deli was opened in the 1930s by Italian immigrants. Nowadays, Scotland's oldest deli, wine merchant and fine food emporiium keeps the city’s gastronauts smiling with cooked-to-order pasta lunches and crumbly lemon cake in its its Caffè Bar. Go, and be transported to heaven on the scent of hams and dried herbs... (www.valvonacrolla.co.uk).
19 Elm Row, Edinburgh EH7 4AA
An offshoot of iconic Valvona & Crolla deli and café opened in honour of its 70th anniversary, this is a wine bar, cafe and retail outlet, all rolled into a sinful, delicious one. The perfect place to rest your feet with a tall skinny latte after a designer shopping spree.
11 Multrees Walk, Edinburgh EH1 3DQ
For an ultra-romantic evening, dinner at this candelit spot by the Castle is second to none. Except, in truth, it’s two restaurants in one – the Secret Garden snuggery has windows onto the terrace and offers luxe, up-close-and-personal dining; the Witchery restaurant is wood-panelled and candlelit. Both serve exceptional contemporary Scottish cuisine.
352 Castlehill, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh EH1 2NF
Fresh seafood and fish that has been through the owners’ own smokehouse on the Isle of Arran. Location-wise, it’s just off the Royal Mile and couldn’t be more central.
3 Hunter Square, Edinburgh EH1 1QW
Award-winning gastropub where the food is organic, local, eco or ethical. The highlight of the extensive drinks menu is a vodka made with Scottish raspberries.
2b Jamaica Street, Edinburgh EH3 6HH
Split into two richly glamorous dining rooms, the flamboyant restaurant at boutique manor house Prestonfield piles on the decadence. Compared to the Jacobean-inspired decor – a pink fit of brocade, tassels and deer antlers – the unfussy food looks almost traditional.
Prestonfield, Priestfield Road, Edinburgh EH16 5UT
Formerly HQ of the Commercial Bank of Scotland, this restaurant on George Street serves traditional lunch and Modern Scottish dinner in a very impressive interior. The titular cupola in the rear room overlooks a central circular bar: the Thirties cocktail bar on one side is loud and lively, with a lighter lunch menu on offer during the day; the restaurant, on the other, is more refined and elegant.
14 George Street, Edinburgh EH2 2PF
Insist on a window seat at this rooftop restaurant that’s a dining room, terrace and contemporary lounge bar all rolled into one. Gourmet Mediterranean food is served à la carte, there’s a curry of the day in the bar, and it has a fantastic selection of sherries, too.
33 Castle Street, Edinburgh EH2 3DN
Spin-off restaurant from the celebrated Fishers Bistro in Leith. Naturally, the emphasis is on fish and seafood – signature dishes include freshly caught seabass stuffed with chorizo, mozzarella and herbs, and, when in season, poached Lindisfarne oysters. Decor is smartish, the atmosphere lively (www.fishersbistros.co.uk).
58 Thistle Street, Edinburgh EH2 1EN
By day, fuel up on light brasserie-menu bites, a plate of oysters, or the full contemporary-cuisine kit and caboodle. By night, this stylish place is a venue worth dressing up for – Rick's super mixologists shake up award-winning martinis.
55a Frederick Street, Edinburgh EH2 1LH
With its comfy leather sofas, chic chandeliers and beer-battered haddock on the menu, this smart lounge bar and gastropub is a great laid-back option for lunch, dinner or a quick pint. Twinned with the nearby Dragonfly bar.
49–50 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh EH1 1E1
A champion of true Southern Indian cuisine. Don’t miss this delightful restaurant and bar run by PC Thakur, winner of the 2007 International Indian Chef of the Year competition – just don’t go asking for naan bread or balti…
1–3 York Place, Edinburgh EH1 3EB
Much-lauded Michelin-starrer in Leith that showcases the best of Scottish seafood, game and beef. It works its line in contemporary and classic French cuisine to perfection.
54 the Shore, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6RA
The chef helming this Leith waterfront favourite is the youngest in Scotland to be awarded a Michelin star. Clearly, good things happen when seasonal ingredients – hand-dived Orkney scallops, net-caught River Esk salmon – meet classic French methods.
78 Commercial Quay, Edinburgh EH6 6LX
With its flickering copper lights and extravagantly detailed dish descriptions, this culinary rascal in the shadow of the Castle makes a meal of its many style quirks. At its heart, there’s a solid, Scotland-goes-to-the-Med menu.
10 Cambridge Street, Edinburgh EH1 2ED
A stylish and innovative meat-free restaurant that manages to be both a mung bean-free zone and a shrine to chic, Scandinavian design.
56–58 St Mary's Street, Edinburgh EH1 1SX
Offers some of the freshest fish in Leith. The menu is rewritten twice daily, as the catch comes in – but you can’t beat the fishcakes.
1a Dock Place, Edinburgh EH6 6LU
Grab an outside table on the terrace at this sister restaurant to Skippers Seafood Bistro, and tuck into the crustacea.
1c Dock Place, Edinburgh EH6 6LU
You want chic cocktails, cutting-edge interior design and disco attitude, all tucked away inside a Georgian townhouse? You got it. This smart hangout also has an excellent restaurant and its own club, Lulu.
125 George Street, Edinburgh EH2 4JN
Glamtastic superclub that’s rightly found favour with the beautiful people, playing a cover-all-bases mix of funky house, disco, chart and indie.
1a Market Street, Edinburgh EH1 1DE
Multi-arts centre with party nights, live showcases, comedy and guest DJs playing it for the leftfield.
37 Holyrood Road, Edinburgh EH8 8BA
Very cool, gritty basement bar with carefully selected live bands that closes when the last person leaves (about 3am most nights). An absolute must. Check their website for the music line-up (www.bramblebar.co.uk).
16A Queen Street, Edinburgh EH2 1JE
A favourite with professionals and posh students, this place classes itself as a cocktail bar but is so much more. Rock-star decor with chandeliers and sexy black walls. Dragonfly hosts live bands and always has a good tune playing.
52 West Port, Edinburgh EH1 2LD
Get dolled up for a night at this unapologetically populist New Town bar. There’s a wide-ranging bar food menu – from chicken strips to crostini – to help soak up the similarly encyclopaedic cocktail menu.
113–115 George Street, Edinburgh EH2 4JN
One of Edinburgh’s most talked-about destinations: 8,000 square feet of after-dark revelry, with candlelit leather-clad corners, where you’ll hear sweet and soulful music on chilled nights and upbeat party tunes at the weekend. Asian-influenced eats and a 3am licence.
51a George Street, Edinburgh EH2 2HT
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