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Despite its perennial bucket-and-spade appeal, the region – which for former resident Rudyard Kipling was ‘beloved over all’ – is also a realm of chalky downlands and tranquil villages, ideal for long walks followed by a congratulatory visit to a cosy country pub. The softness of the landscape is reflected in the quiet cobblestone charm of mediaeval market towns such as Rye, and in the creamy Regency façades and Victorian pleasure pursuits of Brighton. It’s not all chocolate-box quaintness though; East Sussex’s proximity to the capital also gives the county a sharper, cultivated edge. Brighton in particular has a wealth of restaurants, clubs and cultural events worthy of its popularity with weekending urbanites.
Neighbouring Kent may be top of the hops, but this county produces more than 60 excellent varieties of beer – so you’ll need to be selective. Harveys in Lewes is the oldest brewery in the region, and is still the big local favourite. Try before you buy at its Brewery Shop on Cliffe High Street (www.harveys.org.uk), or do your sampling in one of the area’s plentiful pubs.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in East Sussex
At this East Sussex boutique hotel – a striking coaching-inn conversion – the ballroom’s high walls are hung with a diverting bird-patterned wallpaper and the chairs clad in monochrome Florence Broadhurst textiles. The George in Rye has decor that makes for love-at-first-sight stuff.
The decadence, the lush furnishings and the enormous beds of this Brighton boutique bolt hole make Blanch House the ideal indulgent weekend getaway at a hotel that benefits from a B&B-style intimacy.
The large airy rooms in Drakes' spacious Regency building take full advantage of the seafront location, and glorious windows promised let the light flood in.
Stylish, contemporary and a far cry from the traditional chintzy bed and breakfast, the Square hotel offers a very sleek version of a Brighton weekend.
Planes, trains or automobiles – we show you the best way to go to East Sussex
May Hastings holds its bizarre Jack-in-the-Green Festival of Morris Dancing on May Day. Running from 3 to 25 May, Brighton Festival is the biggest arts event in England, and includes the Brighton Festival Fringe, which is presented over the same period (www.brightonfestival.org). May–August Glyndebourne Festival Opera is one of the year’s top social fixtures (www.glyndebourne.com). See our European events guide Smith 52 for details, or buy the book for the full insider lowdown. July–August Gay Pride (www.brightonpride.org). September The Rye Festival is a long-established celebration of art and music (www.ryefestival.co.uk). November Lewes’ Guy Fawkes celebrations are among the UK’s finest. See our European events guide Smith 52 for details, or buy the book for the full insider lowdown.
One of Rye’s oldest tearooms, Fletchers has been selling hot drinks and delicious cream cakes since 1932. At lunch there are soups and savoury temptations such as Kent hop sausages; on a sunny day, you can sit in the secret walled garden.
2 Lion Street, Rye, East Sussex TN31 7LB
There’s absolutely no chance of you running out of tea rooms to choose from in Rye. This is another historic establishment, with coffee, home-made cakes and – what else? – cream teas.
Mermaid Street, Rye TN31 7ET
This deli-cum-café meets organic greengrocer is fantastic for a hearty and healthy lunch, which is just as well since browsing its shelves is bound to whet the appetite. Among the bottles of Tuscan olive oil, home-made marmalade and fresh-cut flowers, you can pick from a plentiful menu of soups, salads and sandwiches, all made to make your mouth water. We love to wash down our boiled eggs and soldiers with a Bloody Mary… There’s a branch in Brighton, too (www.billsproducestore.co.uk).
56 Cliffe High Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 2AN
A great place to pick up locally farmed organic produce, as well as regional specialities such as Paynes honey, bacon from the Weald Smokery and excellent Sussex cheeses. There’s a small family-friendly café, too, with sandwiches and daily specials to eat in or take away.
40 Wordsworth Street, Hove, East Sussex BN3 5BH
This long-established restaurant on Landgate in Rye has an excellent menu of classic and contemporary British dishes. Most ingredients are sourced from the surrounding area; try salty Romney Marsh lamb and Rye Bay’s famous scallops. Closed Mondays (and Tuesdays after a bank holiday).
5–6 Landgate, Rye, East Sussex TN31 7LH
This restaurant in Westfield near Battle serves modern English dishes which often use ingredients (particularly mushrooms) gathered from the nearby Brede woods.
Woodgate House, Westfield Lane, Westfield TN35 4SB
It’s not much to look at, but this place in the Hastings Old Town fries up some of the best fish ’n’ chips in the UK.
61b High Street, Old Town, Hastings
There's a short but impeccable seasonal menu at this elegant Hove restaurant and bar on George Street; there’s also a sunny (on a good day) terrace out the back. Try the excellent cocktails, too.
81 George Street, Hove, East Sussex BN3 3YE
A relaxed, restaurant-quality gastropub awaits behind an unassuming white clapboard façade on Rye’s Military Road; try hearty pot-roast pheasant, Rye Bay plaice, liver and bacon or home-made fish fingers.
10 Military Road, Rye, East Sussex TN31 7NX
Of all the excellent pubs in Sussex, this pub in Old Heathfield is a Smith favourite. It has a decent gastro menu and its garden is absolutely beautiful in summer.
Church Street, Heathfield, East Sussex TN21 9AH
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