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But the fact that it’s so frequently bypassed makes this relatively undiscovered area of Carmarthenshire blissfully unaware of its own charms – and all the more appealing for them. Stick close to the sea and you’ve got endless views of the ‘slow, black, crow-black, fishing boat-bobbing sea’ that inspired local boy Dylan Thomas’ masterpiece Under Milk Wood. Pop in on his home town, Laugharne (pronounced ‘larn’), and see just where the great man lived, worked and drank. Or head inland and embark on a fairy-tale castle crawl that takes in undulating hills, tranquil market towns and vistas of the Tywi Valley. Then tuck into some laverbread and salt marsh lamb and raise a glass of Felinfoel to the fact that you’ve stumbled across Wales’ best-kept secret.
Pendine Sands, a wide, flat seven-mile beach, gained fame as the location for several attempts on the world land speed record. In 1924, Malcolm Campbell set the pace with a top speed of 146mph in his car, Bluebird. At Pendine Museum of Speed (+44 (0)1994 453488), you can still see ‘Babs’, the restored motorcar used by Parry Thomas on his fatal record-breaking attempt in 1927. The beach has featured as a backdrop for racing stunts on Top Gear and is popular with kiters.
… buying a dusty first edition from Corran Books in Laugharne (+44 (0)1994 427444). This ramshackle bookshop is run by George Tremlett, one of the first rock journalists and a Dylan Thomas fanatic. Even if the Georgian stone shop looks as though it’s closed, chances are it isn’t. Current stock is listed at www.abebooks.com/home/corranbooks.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Carmarthen Bay
Hurst House on the Marsh was once a farm estate, but, thanks to a multimillion pound overhaul, you'd never know that now. Its handsome chrome-and-glass bar looks like an art installation on loan from Tate Modern for starters…
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
March/April The Laugharne Weekend, a celebration of Welsh and Celtic writing in performance (www.thelaugharneweekend.com). Late May Llanelli Festival of Walks offers up to 15 different guided walks a day, taking in gorgeous countryside and landmarks (www.llanelliramblers.org.uk). June Carmarthen Antiques and Collectors’ Fair at United Counties Showground sees dealers selling everything from Georgian furniture to 20th-century kitchenalia and jewellery (www.towyevents.co.uk). September The National Mud Festival of Wales draws attention to the wetlands by getting down and dirty with welly-wanging competitions and mud sculpting (+44 (0)1554 741087; www.wwt.org.uk). October Apple Weekend at the National Botanic Garden of Wales; anything with a pip and a core is ripe for celebration (www.gardenofwales.org.uk). Early December Aberglasney’s Traditional Winter Fair, an annual yuletide favourite at the stately home, has more mulled wine, minstrels and market stalls than you could shake a cinnamon stick at (www.aberglasney.org).
Quaint stone-built café, busy licensed restaurant and well-stocked deli all under one roof. Whether you drop in for teacakes and coffee, a home-cooked curry or a jar of locally produced jam, make room for a butter-slathered slice of bara brith, a currant-speckled Welsh fruit bread.
6 Grist Square, Laugharne, Carmarthen, Carmarthenshire SA33 4SS
A bastion of home-country cooking in the town centre, with a menu that strays beyond the Welsh border. Specials include locally caught dressed crab and shepherd’s pie, as well as coronation chicken and Italian meatballs.
3 Grist Square, Laugharne, Carmarthen, Carmarthenshire SA33 4SS
Chic and imaginative café off historic Nott’s Square. There’s a daily changing lunch menu, or drop by mid-afternoon for something lip-smackingly delicious from the laden cake counter.
4 Queen Street, Carmarthen, Carmarthenshire SA31 1JR
Pass through towering Moroccan hand-carved doors into the expansive Hurst House restaurant to sample young star chef Scott Davis’ Modern British cuisine. Local produce is the thing here (all sourced within 30 miles of the restaurant when possible), and it's the perfect place for languishing over lunch at the weekend. Expect lashings of salt marsh lamb and sea trout. Booking essential. The hotel bar is a good place for a drink of an evening.
East Marsh, Laugharne, Carmarthenshire SA33 4RS
One of the best places to eat in Laugharne, with home-cooked food served in an elegant former vicarage. The traditional Welsh menu makes use of produce lifted fresh from Carmarthen market as well as local delicacies like salt marsh lamb. Take a stroll in between courses in the exotic gardens criss-crossed with streams (service is suitably relaxed). Owner Nick often joins his patrons for a bite, or, even more frequently, for a drink. Open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays only. Booking essential (www.the-cors.co.uk).
Newbridge Road, Laugharne, Carmarthenshire SA33 4SH
An offshoot of the local pottery and glassworks, this restaurant, bar and coffee shop serves home-made food. Welsh lamb and hams rub up against retro-flavoured classics such as lasagne and chicken chasseur; steak and chips is appealing, made with excellent, locally sourced ingredients.
Market Square, Laugharne, Carmarthenshire SA33 4RY
Conservatory restaurant on a cobbled side street behind the clocktower, with pretty grounds overlooking Laugharne Castle that makes for a great place for Sunday lunch. The menu takes from British, Mediterranean and Eastern cuisines, while the wine list is predominantly New World. If you’re only looking for a nibble, there’s a full tapas menu served in the bar.
Market Lane, Laugharne, Carmarthenshire SA33 4SB
Multi-award-winning rustic inn in a tiny hamlet, worth popping into on your journey if you're heading down to Carmarthen Bay from the western fringes of Brecon Beacons National Park. Serves a meticulously contemporary menu with classical influences and has enough going for it to out-rank a cut-above city restaurant. Co-owner Rod Peterson is a former Welsh chef of the year – and it shows in the regularly changing menu (www.angelsalem.co.uk).
Salem, Llandeilo, Carmarthenshire SA19 7LY
Another en-route restaurant at Brecons border town Llandeilo: a bright, modern venue that serves continent-crossing bistro meals. After crispy Gressingham duck breast with Delmonico potatoes or chicken in Parma ham with tagliatelle, finish off with a brandy on the deep leather sofa, in front of the Georgian fireplace.
The Cawdor, Rhosmaen Street, Llandeilo, Carmarthenshire SA19 6EN
A recently refurbished pub and brasserie that used to be one of Dylan Thomas' favourite haunts – the views of Laugharne Castle and the estuary explain why (www.theboathousebnb.co.uk).
1 Gosport Street, Laugharne, Carmarthenshire SA33 4SY
Run by a local fisherman, this popular little wine bar-cum-eatery about 45 minutes from Hurst House on the Marsh is tiny but charming; bistro-style menus centre on the patron's catch of the day. No children's menus; vegetarians should give 24 hours' notice; booking essential. Porthgain has a little art gallery, Harbour Lights, well worth peeking into.
Porthgain, Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire SA62 5BW
A magnet for locals, this marine-themed venue has a great jukebox. Drop in for a pint of Felinfoel and join the nightly party.
Victoria Street, Laugharne, Carmarthenshire SA33 4SE
Dylan Thomas was something of a fixture here, regularly holding forth while his drink rested on the bar. These days, the biggest attractions are the draught beers, and the home-cooked Welsh and Kiwi specialities – the owner hails from New Zealand.
Grist Square, Laugharne, Carmarthenshire SA33 4SS
Reliable dining pub six miles from Carmarthen, serving huge portions of traditional, taste-of-Wales cuisine made with locally sourced goodies, including lamb and cockles (www.butchersofllanddarog.co.uk).
Llanddarog, near Carmarthen, Carmarthenshire SA32 8NS
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