For more information and to book please visit www.mrandmrssmith.com or let us arrange your whole trip, by calling +44 (0)20 8987 4312 or from the USA dial 1 866 610 3867.
Fringing hidden coves and sweeping river estuaries, Blue Flag-clean sand connects coastal walkways, and the clifftops offer a spectacular panorama of views over the ever-present sea. The Georgian fishing villages and towns – such as Aberaeron – that dot this charm-packed coastline have been smartened up, but behind their brightly-painted, pretty façades, they remain low-key, laid-back, and as warm-hearted and welcoming as ever. The sprucing up of these time-locked coastal havens has also brought trend-tapping boutique hotels, delis and craft shops, sprinkling just the right amount of style dust over the scenic surrounds. Certainly not the place to start a revolution – but probably the perfect place to escape one…
Britain isn’t exactly famed for its safari-scale fauna, but Cardigan Bay’s many pods of bottlenose, Risso’s and common dolphins, harbour porpoises and minke whales – not to mention grey seals – prove you don’t have to circumnavigate the globe to see big, fast creatures prowling for their dinner. So, when beach-strolling, keep your eyes peeled and your binoculars ready for any sleek cetaceans as they zip by. Do your bit for wildlife conservation and adopt a Cardigan Bay dolphin with the Sea Watch Foundation (www.adoptadolphin.org.uk).
… getting your photo taken by the Llanddewi Brefi sign. Although the town, on the Dewi Road between Tregaron and Lampeter, was made famous in Little Britain, it’s still the only sign in the village.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Cardigan Bay
Llety Bodfor is a spruce seafront townhouse in Aberdovey (Aberdyfi in Welsh) that conceals a world of fresh-linened, sheepskin-cushion-covered beds a stroll from the Welsh coastline.
The fishing village of Aberaeron is painted to perfection, forming a pitched crescendo of pastels and primaries. The Harbourmaster Hotel is a jaunty midnight blue.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
March Wales One World Film Festival Aberystwyth showcases world cinema (www.wowfilmfestival.org). July Cardigan Bay Seafood Festival celebrates local crustaceans with samples, song and dance (www.aberaeron.info). August Cardigan River and Food Festival pays homage to the river Teifi (www.visitcardigan.com). The Machynlleth Festival brings a week of upscale musical performance; ENO soprano Sarah-Jane Davies has provided past festival highlights (www.momawales.org.uk). October Don’t just talk the talk – stretch your legs at the Cardigan Festival of Walking (www.visitcardigan.com). December At Aberystwyth Christmas Food Fayre, fill your festive larder with the bounty of Cardigan (+44 (0)1970 633066).
This deli is only a short stroll away from boutique bed and breakfast Llety Bodfor, and is the best place in Aberdovey to enjoy coffee, quiches and home-made cakes with the morning papers.
7 Seaview Terrace, Aberdovey, Gwynedd LL35 0EE
Unpretentious, organic and vegetarian fare, set up by the same folk who run the Centre for Alternative Technology down the road. While you munch your spinach and chestnut mushroom risotto, expect to dine with breast-feeding earth-mums sipping lentil and carrot soup as they ponder the notice-board ads.
13 Maengwyn Street, Machynlleth, Powys SY20 8EB
An organic, locally sourced menu, with vegetarian and vegan options (spicy red lentil and roasted butternut squash). Admittedly, the Welsh lamb-burger doesn’t fall into either of those categories. But whether it’s meat or two veg that chirpy décor brightens up your standard Victorian upper room.
14 Baker Street, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion SY23 2EJ
This old coaching inn with its sturdy-looking, dark-wood furniture serves melt-in-the-mouth Welsh venison, roast partridge and even grilled ox heart. Wash Gareth John’s creations down with a bottle from what some reckon is the principality’s most impressive wine cellar. Try to book a table by the vast fireplace, and prepare to feast like kings.
Maengwyn Street, Machynlleth, Powys SY20 8AE
Behind the seemingly sweet façade of beamed ceilings, picture-covered walls and gingham tablecloths, Zurich-trained chef Trevor Pharoah cooks up a mean (in the best sense) meal. Battle his Zrazy Nelson: griddled medallions of beef fillet, served with a kümmel and cucumber sauce.
1 Chapel Square, Aberdovey, Gwynedd LL35 0EL
Sharing its owners with the ‘Bistro on the Square’, it’s Mrs Pharoah who takes the lead in this more light-hearted establishment, offering fun fajitas alongside local fish dishes. But try Cottleston Pie, named after a Winnie the Pooh poem, and rejoicing in chicken, garlic sausage and sweetcorn topped with potato crisps and melted cheese.
17 Glandovey Terrace, Aberdovey, Gwynedd LL35 0EB
Perched right on quay (the better to preside over our maritime border), this culinary local bigwig serves crab and lobster straight out of the bay – so mind your fingers! There’s Welsh black beef and venison on the menu too; book in advance as its fine reputation makes it a magnet for hungry foodies.
Pen Cei, Aberaeron, Ceredigion SA46 OBA
The muted, modernist grey décor belies chef Cheuk Kong’s mission to tint his Welsh ingredients a strongly Gallic red, white and blue. We’d recommend a platter of his roast guinea fowl.
31 Eastgate Street, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion SY23 2AS
Wales is a principality, and a sure way to appreciate that royal fact in full is to experience luxurious dining in a charming country house that once had a notable makeover from its previous owner – Queen Victoria.
Ynyshir Hall, Eglwys Fach, Machynlleth, Powys SY20 8TA
Overlooking the yacht-dotted Dyfi estuary and harbouring a polite, café-style ambiance, this restaurant is a short walk along the coast from boutique hotel Llety Bodfor and serves fabulously fresh fish accompanied by wine from well-appointed cellars. Book a table in the restaurant if you’re in the mood for fine dining and white linen, but we also love the adjoining Fisherman’s Bar – you’ll need reservations here, too, if you want to eat.
27–29 Terrace Road, Aberdovey, Gwynedd LL35 0LT
A slick mix of wine bar, café and pub: with plenty of sofa space on which to dip wistfully in and out of your tapas. Aberystwyth is a University town and the Orangery has a youthful appeal that attracts geniuses with good taste – spending their student-loans (or don’s stipends) on dressed crab.
Market Street, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion SY23 1DL
Traditionally styled, lively and family-friendly village pub. Enjoy a jolly post-walk pint in one of four bars, or two patios.
Seaview Terrace, Aberdovey, Gwynedd LL35 0EF
©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith
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