For more information and to book please visit www.mrandmrssmith.com or let us arrange your whole trip, by calling +44 (0)20 8987 4312 or from the USA dial 1 866 610 3867.
On the borders of the Brecon Beacons National Park, sweet villages and bustling towns beckon: bursting with bookish riches, Hay on Wye’s annual literature festival is hailed as ‘the Woodstock of the mind’. The body can indulge in delicious, locally reared lamb and beef; take to the hills for some invigorating cycling, caving or hiking; and recuperate in cosy country pubs. Somehow, the landscape urges you to climb higher, delve deeper and walk further. And, when you finally reach that distant waterfall, mountain-encircled lake or windswept ridge, and gaze out across the heart-stopping view, you will find that the Brecon Beacons will make the spirits soar, too.
Amazingly, it’s possible to pan for gold in the Brecon Beacons. The Dolaucothi Gold Mines (www.nationaltrust.org.uk) in the beautiful Cothi Valley have been mined since the Roman era; commercial mining was abandoned in the 1930s, but there’s still ‘gold in tham thar hills’. You can tour the underground workings and, more importantly, have a go at panning for a nugget or two. Don’t start an imaginary stockpile of bullion just yet, though; you’ve more chance of seeing ‘Ned’ – the ghost of a mine worker – than a bright yellow flash in the pan. You can, however, buy Welsh gold jewellery on site.
… going down into the Big Pit. It’s not exactly romantic, but descending 300 feet underground at the National Mining Museum at Blaenafon near Abergavenny provides a fascinating insight into the bedrock (quite literally) of Welsh culture (+44 (0)1495 790311; www.museumwales.ac.uk/en/bigpit). Children must be over one metre tall, to comply with safety regulations.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Brecon Beacons
An elegant Edwardian townhouse in lovely Llandeilo, Fronlas is an ecologist’s dream. The breathtaking views of the Brecon Beacons aren’t bad either.
Nestled between three mountain peaks and surrounded by lakes, reservoirs and rolling hills, The New White Lion bed and breakfast in Llandovery is a wonderful Welsh boutique getaway that provides succour for urban style junkies, romantic weekenders and countryside thrillseekers alike.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
May For book lovers, the Hay Festival, in Hay-on-Wye, is pretty much mandatory (www.hayfestival.com). For more details, see our European events guide Smith 52, or buy the book get the full lowdown. August The newly established Green Man festival is an already much-loved folk music jamboree that has played host to Joanna Newsom and a reinvented Robert Plant (www.thegreenmanfestival.co.uk). August bank holiday Brecon Jazz Festival is a star-studded affair, with Andy Sheppard and Lulu among the recent roster of performers (www.breconjazz.co.uk). If it’s muddiness you crave, the World Bog-snorkelling Championships in Llanwrtyd Wells over the bank holiday are downright odd but immense fun (www.green-events.co.uk). September Abergavenny Food Festival is a showcase of wild-and-woolly Welsh gastronomy (www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com). November The Mid-Wales Beer Festival sees dinky Llanwrtyd Wells become the centre of even more barminess (+44 (0)1591 610666; www.llanwrtyd-wells.powys.org.uk).
There are about 50 fantastic flavours to choose from here. Local milk and cream is used and many of the fruit flavours come from local farms. Some say it’s the best ice-cream in Wales, and they’re probably right.
19 Bridge Street, Llanfaes, Brecon, Powys LD3 8AH
This lovely tearoom has makes excellent cream teas and is located next to the herb garden in the Brecon cathedral close.
Brecon Cathedral Close, Brecon, Powys LD3 9DP
Most people visit Aberglasney House and Gardens for the beautiful surroundings alone, but there’s also a wonderful café in the grounds where you can enjoy an excellent, locally sourced and seasonal menu.
Aberglasney, Llangathen, Carmarthenshire SA32 8QH
If you’re heading towards Hay and Brecon via Ross on Wye, or exploring Monmouthshire countryside, make a stop at this wonderful inn overlooking the Monnow river. It has award-winning menus of locally sourced produce, real ales and a decent wine list; the garden terrace is idyllic in summer. Under-8s are not allowed in the restaurant in the evening, but the Bell is very family friendly, with a fantastic children’s menu.
Skenfrith, Monmouthshire NP7 8UH
Owned and run by Rod Paterson, a former Welsh Chef of the Year, this accomplished restaurant to the west of the National Park is cosy and inviting, and the Modern British menu is prepared with considerable panache. Worth a bit of an extra drive; make reservations to avoid disappointment, though.
Salem, near Llandeilo, Carmarthenshire SA19 7LY
Fresh local ingredients and a Modern European menu of traditional and innovative international dishes are served in crisply modern surroundings – this restaurant on the western outskirts of the National Park has many original Georgian features and a lovely fireplace. Sunday lunch is always popular.
Rhosmaen Street, Llandeilo, Carmarthenshire SA19 6EN
Overlooking the River Irfon, this restaurant is exceptionally good. There’s no choice on the daily menu but then you’re in expert hands, and any dietary requirements are noted when you book.
Dolecoed Road, Llanwrtyd Wells, Powys LD5 4ST
What appears on the outside to be a simple local pub is in fact an elegant little gastro haven. Dishes are as tasty and satisfying as they are unfussy.
Capel Dewi, near Carmarthen, Carmarthenshire SA32 7LH
The slightly bland exterior hides a very welcoming pub-style restaurant with great food that makes an excellent spot for lunch when heading through Brecon.
Felin Fach, Brecon, Powys LD3 0UB
This fantastic pub with its Modern British menu is predominantly the domain of Welsh-speaking locals and has a friendly and inviting atmosphere; just make sure you know which team to support if the rugby’s on.
Cilycwm, Llandovery, Carmarthenshire SA20 0ST
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