Worth getting out of bed for

Istanbul itinerary

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Viewpoint

There are several panoramic bars and restaurants on the top floors of the city’s modern high-rise buildings: Mikla (0212 251 4646), 360 (0212 251 1042) and NuTeras (0212 245 6070) are three notables.

Arts and culture

Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya) was the great cathedral of Byzantium for over 1,000 years, and was the greatest mosque in the Ottoman Empire for five centuries. Now a museum, it’s still one of the world's most fabulous buildings. Look out for the dips in the floor on either side of the doorway, worn in by guards' feet over the ages. Next-door is the Topkapi Palace with its opulent harem, and across the park is the Blue Mosque. For contemporary culture, visit Istanbul Modern, an art space symbolising Istanbul’s desire to be taken seriously as a progressive, creative hub (www.istanbulmodern.org).

Something for nothing

Opposite the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque with its soaring minarets and intricate stonework is one of the city’s main landmarks. Remember to dress modestly or wrap yourself in one of the sheets provided. If you’re feeling confident, go to General Yazgan Street and challenge the locals to a game of backgammon – you won’t stand a chance.

Shopping

The Grand Bazaar is a warren of hundreds of shops selling carpets, jewellery, touristy junk and textiles. It's a good place to pick up caviar and gold. Brush up on your bargaining/haggling skills before you go and carry a Turkish newspaper under your arm (make sure it’s visible!) to deter aggressive salesmen. If you can’t hack the haggling, head straight to Kurtoğlu (0212 519 4003), where Hasan Selamet sells beautiful patchwork-style kilims made from old and new textiles (have an apple tea on the house while you’re deciding which rug to buy). Also in the Grand Bazaar, Abdulla Natural Products (0212 522 9078), next-door to Fes Café, sells traditional soaps, silk shawls, wool textiles and cotton hammam-style towels. The Beyoğlu area is the Soho of Istanbul, characterised by steep narrow streets lined with bric-a-brac, vintage and retro shops. ; Faik Pasa Yokusu is one of the best roads for rummaging. For designer threads and boutique shopping, head to Teşvikiye Caddesi and Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi, about a mile north of Taksim Square. The Kanyon centre (www.kanyon.com.tr) in Levent even has a branch of Harvey Nichols.

Daytripper

The Princes Islands in the Sea of Marmara to the south of Istanbul have historically been a place of exile and of refuge; they make a wonderful retreat from the city, particularly in summer. Büyükada, with its horse-drawn carriages and its Greek Orthodox Church of St John the Baptist, is particularly charming. Ferries depart regularly from Eminönü’s Adalar pier, taking 90 minutes.

Perfect picnic

Take a ferry up the Bosphorus to Anadolu Kavaği. The village is surrounded by wooded hills and there are great views from the Byzantine ruins of Yoros castle, which once controlled the Black Sea approaches.

Walks

Get a feel for city life by strolling along the pedestrianised Istiklal Caddesi in the Beyoglu district – Istanbul’s answer to Oxford Street, Las Ramblas or Fifth Avenue – especially on a Saturday evening; you’ll be sharing the pavement with local couples, hawkers, performers, families and friends out for the night.

Activities

A boat ride up the Bosphorus between the Asian and European shores lined with yalis (summerhouses) is a wonderful experience. Turkish Maritime Lines runs a leisurely-paced cruise all the way to the Black Sea at least once a day from Eminönü. Departure times vary so ask your hotel to check for you. Alternatively you can hop on and off the network of commuter ferries that ply the waterway.