Printable destination guide

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Koh Samui

Thailand

Coastline
Lush, sun-kissed tropics
Coast life
Beach-basking and bar-hopping

Trimmed with gorgeous beaches and filled with cool, verdant forests, Thailand’s third largest island is an altar to carefree tropical leisure.

Samui was once the destination of choice for the baggy-panted backpacker crowd eager for the party pleasures of the infamous Full Moon celebrations. These days, the island has grown into a sophisticated tropical retreat, replete with private boutique resorts, world-class spas and tantalizing Thai restaurants. Some parts of the island have succumbed to the rather raucous effects of over-development but, with a little effort, it’s still possible to find that idyllic paradise beach and a shimmering vermillion sunset.

Pictured: Six Senses Hideaway Samui

Boutique hotels in Koh Samui

Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and boutique hotels in Koh Samui

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Getting there

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

more

Worth getting out of bed for

Highlights the best Koh Samui has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

more

Eating, drinking & dancing

We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Koh Samui.

more

Koh Samui hotel map - Smith Maps

Smith Maps

Here is the map of Koh Samui; each Mr & Mrs Smith hotel is marked by a flag; click it for more details.

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Local knowledge

Taxis
Cabs cruise around the more populous areas of the island. Meters are installed but their purpose seems to be primarily decorative, so agree a fare beforehand. Check the standard rate with your hotel or get your concierge to hire one for you.
Tipping culture
A 10 per cent service charge is usually added to hotel and restaurant bills, but staff seldom see this. Leave a cash tip for especially impressive service.
Siesta and Fiesta
When it comes to time, tropical habits apply. Some shops open late – and we mean late – in the afternoons.
Packing tips
Bermudas, singlets, bikinis and sundresses are de rigeur. Flip-flopping is acceptable everywhere. Make sure you’re armed with insect repellent – Samui has some very single-minded mosquitoes.
Recommended reads
The Beach by Alex Garland; The Chronoliths by Robert Charles Wilson and Thailand: True Stories by James O'Reilly and Larry Habegger.
Cuisine
Koh Samui tantalises taste buds too. Its island nature helps ensure its seafood is particularly noteworthy – and it’s also blessed with an abundance of coconuts thanks to the prolific palms. Thanks to tourist-led rejuvenation, the dining scene is thriving, diverse and surprisingly sophisticated, owing a lot to the diligence of the Samui Culinary Circle, an association of idea- and ingredient-sharing chefs and caterers (www.siamdiningguide.com).
Currency
Thai baht. £1 is approximately THB65.
Time zone
GMT +7
Dialing codes
Country code for Thailand: 66; local code for Samui is (0)77.
Do go/don't go
The high season from May to November produces an unusually high number of sun-burnt bodies and motorbike mishaps. It’s still pleasantly sunny during the off-peak periods, although be prepared for rain and the power cuts that come with it.

Koh Samui hotels

Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and boutique hotels in Koh Samui



Getting there

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

Planes
Koh Samui’s open-plan airport, with its bowls of free fruit and Hawaiian shirt- wearing-staff, is certainly one of a kind. It’s operated by the hip Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com), the only airline that flies to the island from Hong Kong, Bangkok, Pattaya, Phuket and Singapore.
Trains
There’s a comfortable sleeper service, with two-person first-class cabins, from Bangkok to Suratthani, where you’re met by a bus and boat connection to take you straight to Samui (www.kohsamui-info.com/transportation/train.html).
Automobiles
The main ring road follows the perimeter of the island, meaning that getting around is relatively easy. A rental car is essential for those keen to explore and, although there are plenty of cheap motorbikes to rent, there are also, unsurprisingly, plenty of injured tourists. If you want to take a two-wheeler, get a helmet, avoid flip-flops and take things slowly.

Worth getting out of bed for

Highlights the best Koh Samui has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

Keenly Koh Samui

It’s impossible to miss the posters for the Full Moon Party when in Samui. Every lunar month, nearly 20,000 visitors take the 50-minute ferry ride from Koh Samui to Koh Phangan, disembarking into a party whirlwind that borders on the decadent. It’s an experience in itself if you’re young-at-heart or plain curious. Smart hoteliers have also begun chartering boats to take you out and back for a short glimpse of the party – long enough to have fun, short enough so you won’t feel stranded; we recommend one of these abbreviated journeys for those who want to see what all the fuss is about without the experience turning into an endurance test. For pleasures of the more sedate sort at Koh Phangan, there are acclaimed yoga institutions such as the Chakra Yoga Centre (+66 89 908 8620) and Agama Yoga (+66 (0)89 233 0217), both offering lessons and training certification.

Viewpoint
42 islands make up the Ang Thong Marine National Park, located northwest of Samui. Rent a local boat and discover the archipelago with its hidden coves and dramatic limestone caves. Stop at Mae Ko Island; the 40-minute climb to Thale Noi, an inland saltwater lake on the mountainside, is more than worth the time.

Arts and culture
Koh Samui’s indigenous population has a strong Muslim background, so the characteristic Buddhist architecture that defines much of mainland is less in evidence here. Having said that, Samui does boast the 12-metre ‘Big Buddha’ in Wat Phra Yai, an enormous golden statue of the seated Buddha, that’s well worthy visiting. Thailand’s national sport, Muay Thai boxing, is showcased at Chaweng Stadium – the largest in the country – and offers an unforgettable evening’s entertainment. There are even training schools available if you fancy your fists.

Something for nothing
A quaint air of bohemia still lingers at Fisherman’s Village, once a favoured backpacker haunt and now one of the most perfectly preserved places on the island. Take a leisurely stroll down the street lined with old wooden Chinese shop-houses, where tiny stores sell quirky knick-knacks.

Shopping
Samui wasn’t made with shoppers in mind. The usual beach garb, pirated DVDs and souvenirs are easily available along the Chaweng stretch. Cute bikini boutique Life’s A Beach (+66 (0) 7742 2630 ) carries a wide range of Aussie bikini brands including Wahine and Seafolly. For more up-market shopping, Iyara Shopping Plaza (+66 (0) 7723 1631), which houses international boutiques such as Lacoste, Geox and Nautica, is your best bet.

Daytripper
The site where Kamalaya spa sits was once a spiritual cave-retreat for Buddhist monks. Spend the day recharging with a host of oriental, medical, naturopathic and holistic healing programmes. Fresh organic cuisine is offered at its in-house restaurant Soma. Alternatively, treat yourself to ambrosial tonics based on ancient Taoist, Thai, and Ayurvedic recipes at the Alchemy tea bar (www.kamalaya.com).

Best beach
To the south, Cheong Mon is possibly the prettiest and most romantic beach in Samui, offering none of the more chaotic commercialism of popular sunspots such as Chaweng. The waters are also among the calmest in the island – perfect for kayaking to the offshore islet of Koh Farn Noi nearby.

Activities
Water cascades over purple rocks at Samui’s tallest and most impressive waterfall, Na Muang. An elephant trek to the top of the second waterfall is your breezy shortcut. The Na Muang Safari Park (+66 (0) 7742 4098) operates rides and hosts monkey and crocodile shows. For the even more adventurous, Canopy Adventures in Bophut can take you on a treetop-to-treetop tour of the jungle, swinging along 500 metres of cable (+66 (0) 7741 4150).

Diary

April Songkran, the Thai New Year sees revellers making merry by throwing water at each other. May–June The Koh Samui Regatta draws the world’s top yachtsmen for a week of passionate sailing (www.samuiregatta.com). August The Fisherman’s Village Festival is the focus of five days of festivity, with live musical performances in the spirit of Woodstock. September The Avis Samui Tennis Open brings keen racketsmiths to the courts.


Eating, drinking and dancing

We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Koh Samui.

Cafés

Restaurants

Betelnut

Run by an American chef who loves talking to his customers as much as he likes to cook, Betelnut is a cool, casual institution. Chef Lord’s fusion cuisine – an exquisite collision between Thai and Californian – is familiar and exotic, like the beach scene just outside his doors.

Soi Colibri, Chaweng South 43/04-5, Moo 3, Tambon Bo Phut, 84320 Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand
+66 (0) 7741 3370


The Mangrove

The Mangrove is an excellent off-the-radar French restaurant operated by a talented French/Belgian couple. Enjoy alfresco dining overlooking the mangrove forest that gives the place its name, and listening to the sounds of the surrounding jungle. There’s a roster of daily specials but house favourites include the wonderful Grilled Beef Tenderloin with Béarnaise Sauce. Make sure you order a post-prandial rum ginger.

Airport Road, Big Buddha Beach, 32/6, Moo 4, Tambon Bo Phut, 84320 Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand
+66 (0) 7742 7584


Tropical Murphy’s

The only Irish pub on Koh Samui, this cheerful Chaweng landmark serves up a mean Ulster Fry to kick-start your day. After all, you can’t live off of buffet breakfasts and banana pancakes all the time. Portions are just as generous for the Thai-slanted pub grub.

Chaweng Beach Road, Chaweng Centre, 14/40, Moo 2, Tambon Bo Phut, 84320 Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand
+66 (0) 7741 3614


Lom Talay

At sunset, make a beeline for the terrace of this Thai-cum-Mediterranean hotel restaurant and watch the sun sink over the sea. The hilltop restaurant overlooks Ang Thong Marine National Park and serves fresh local seafood that’s as good as the view.

Baan Taling Ngam Resort and Spa, 295, Moo 3, Tambon Taling Ngam, 84140 Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand
+66 (0) 7742 9100


Bars and clubs

Q Bar

This Bangkok-born Thai nightlife institution (www.qbarsamui.com) overlooks Chaweng Lake. Cutting-edge music and stylish decor attract a well-heeled party crowd.


Solo

Solo is an oasis of ivory cool in the heart of Chaweng. The couch seats on the first levels are great for unwinding while people-watching.

+66 (0) 7744 0125


Bar@C

For somewhere a little swankier, head to Amari Palm Reef Resort’s own cocktail lounge. Yummy daiquiris are the poison of choice at this sophisticated beachfront bar.

+66 (0) 7742 2015 19




©2008 Mr & Mrs Smith