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Until 1938, Chiang Mai was the sleepy capital of the ancient Lanna kingdom. Filled with splendid temples, saffron-robed monks and dusty tracks, the venerable walled city retained most of its somnambulant charm right up until the late 1980s and the arrival of mass tourism. These days, if you spend some time wandering the back streets of the old city you can still find the remnants of its previous life. Juxtaposed with this peaceful heritage is a raft of cool design, creative youth and frenetic activity.
Just outside of the city is Prempracha's Collection (224 Moo 3 Chiangmai Sankampang Road; +66 (0) 5333 8540), a n Aladdin’s cave of Thai ceramics. Wandering through the giant warehouse-cum-showroom, you see samples of decorations that you've spied on shelves back home, but here they’re a fraction of the price. There are hundreds of pots, vases, flatware, sculptures and other ceramic designs on display here. An ideal end-of-holiday gift-buying destination.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Chiang Mai
A step-back-in-time slice of the Thai-colonial era, Puripunn offers all the city thrills of historic Chiang Mai while maintaining the air of a secluded rustic escape.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
April Chiang Mai Songkran and Lannathai Festival. This is the place to celebrate the Thai New Year’s orgy of water-throwing; join locals in getting everyone else as wet as possible. Chiang Mai International Arts and Culture Festival brings international performing arts groups to the city. May Visaka Bucha Day celebrates the life, enlightenment and death of Buddha, and is the holiest day of the year in the Buddhist calendar: watch the candlelit evening procession to Doi Suthep. November Loy Krathong harks from a 13th century Sukhothai tradition of giving thanks to the Goddess of water and of seeking forgiveness for past misdeeds, and is celebrated through the launching a small float of flowers and candles onto rivers and canals. December Chiang Mai Food Festival sees folk flock to the city to taste tempting traditional treats.
Supermodels and Hollywood stars are often spotted in this casual eatery hidden in the heart of the city's expat enclave (just outside of the gates of the old town). The pad thai and coffee are favourites, but the authentic, fresh fare is only part of the draw. Owner Alan Solomon, a former personal security advisor (his former clients include Bill Gates), knows to respect patrons’ privacy and protects them from inquisitive star-gazers. His novel, named after the café, was released in 2007.
8/2 Loi-Kroh Road, Chiang Mai
For a quick one-stop food and shopping fix, Mandarin Oriental’s faux-Thai village mall, Kad Dhara, is surprisingly cool. And when you get a little peckish from polishing your credit cards, take a break in the bright, comfortable and always well-stocked Oriental Shop. This colonial café is the perfect place for a quick coffee, a leisurely cup of tea or a light meal.
Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, 51/4 Chiang Mai-Sankampaeng Road, Chiang Mai 50000
More of a diner than an actual café, this centrally located eatery near Thapae Gate is hugely popular with both expatriates and tourists, and features fantastic breakfasts, the only decent Mexican food in town and well-prepared local food.
291 Thapae Road, Chiang Mai 50100
Built by renowned Thai architect Ajarn Chulathat Kitibutr, this is another magical dining destination. Nestled above the quiet, torch-lit banks of the Mae Ping River, 15 minutes from the city, Baan Suan is a stark contrast to the throbbing riverside strip on Charoenrat Road. Outdoor tables are arranged around a traditional sala (open living and dining room). Cool breezes and starry skies lull diners into a state nearing tranquillity as they savour sweet northern-style pork curry with balls of sticky rice.
25 Moo 3 San-Phi-Sua, Thailand 50300
This riverside restaurant is big with the diplomatic and celebrity set. For a sunset cocktail, head to the tree-shaded riverside terrace with its closely-packed tables and benches. Try the laab pla (minced fish with spices and herbs), a regional favourite served warm and eaten with raw vegetables including cabbage and tomatoes.
25–29 Charoen Rat Road, Chiang Mai 50000
Fine dining with sweeping views overlooking terraced paddy fields and clusters of Lanna-style residences (a local architectural design characterised by low-rise wooden structures on stilts, heavily decorated with wooden carvings): it must be the Four Seasons’ famous Thai restaurant. Twenty minutes from the city by car, this fabulous spot is very fashionable with high-society Thais – including, we hear, the royal family. Try the signature kaow soy kai (a noodle dish served in soupy chicken curry) and kratong tong (minced chicken and shrimp in a crispy casing).
Four Seasons Resort, Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Road, Chiang Mai 50180
This quaint, antique-filled house is a contender for the city’s most historic restaurant. Foodies from around the world have it at the top of their Chiang-Mai must-visits, and for good reason. For over 35 years, its mouth-watering deep-fried spare rib special has been winning over Thai and international gourmands who’ve come through Huen Phen’s rickety wooden door in search of authentic Northern Thai cuisine.
112 Rachamankha Road, Chiang Mai 50000
This quirky restaurant serves well executed international and Thai dishes. Their khao soy with osso buco is particularly delicious. Choose to sit inside or out in the chic (but warm) courtyard.
Rachamankha Hotel, 6 Rachamankha 9, Chiang Mai 50200
Hugely popular with foreign visitors and expatriates, this beautifully restored colonial building is home to diners lounging on rattan chairs and eating at linen-covered tables. The rooms are candlelit and extremely romantic. The food is international and, in all honesty, second to the ambience.
199 Moonmuang Road, Chiang Mai 50200
This laid-back bar initially opened as a meeting place for journalists and writers. The scribes in town congregate on Friday nights. An ultra-casual venue for a drink, with writers perpetually in-house, there’s usually someone up to spin a yarn to strangers.
141/3 Rachadamnoen Road, Chiang Mai 50100
Although we’re not huge on Dalaabaa as a dining venue, we do think it’s perfect for a pre- or post-dinner drink. Set in a veranda-outlined Sixties house and decked in art deco inside, this is one of the grooviest pads in town.
113 Bamrungraj Road, Wat Kate Chiang Mai 50000
This fun bar and restaurant is always filled with a hip young Thai clientele. There’s live music most nights, which can range from acoustic to jazz to rock.
7 Nimmanhaemin Road Soi 9, Chiang Mai 50200
©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith
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