Printable destination guide

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Boutique hotels in Granada

City breaks in Granada, Spain

Granada Overview

Spain

Cityscape
Moorish Magnificence
City life
Tapas and tagines

Sun-baked and history-steeped, Granada allows you to travel from the romance of a mediaeval sultanate via the teashops and bazaars of Morocco, through centuries of Catholic Andalucia, and finally to the tapas bars and bustling streets of a modern Spanish city – all in one day.

500 years ago, when the Moors were driven out of Granada, Boabdil, the last sultan, is said to have wept as he turned his back on his beautiful palaces. Looking at the city today, it’s easy to understand his grief. Chief of Granada’s attractions is Alhambra, the vast complex of forts and palaces that sits sentinel above the city, commanding spectacular views and drawing hordes of tourists year round. From its famous turrets, you can gaze over the city to Albayzín, a winding maze of hilly streets that was once the Moorish citadel and is now a good place to stop for a mint tea and a hookah pipe in of the many teterias (tea shops). Further uphill you come to Sacromonte, the gypsy barrio that gave the world flamenco, where many of the homes are actually caves built into the hillside. Down in the city-centre, Granada’s Spanish past takes centre-stage at the Capilla Real, the chapel that houses the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabel, the royal couple who not only ousted the lamenting Boabdil, but also sent Columbus on his first world-changing voyage of discovery.

Genuinely Granada

Granada is one of the few cities left in Spain that still offers free tapas. Join the locals at around 9pm for the evening bar-hop, enjoying a whistle-stop tour of the local cuisine as you go. You’ll be given a tapa with each drink, with the dish often increasing in quality and complexity the more drinks you buy. Calle Navas is the best place to start…

Local knowledge

Taxis
Although cabs are flaggable in the street, it can be tricky to pin one down in the evening, so try one of the ranks close to Granada’s big-name attractions, such as Alhambra, or call Teleradio Taxi Granada on +34 958 280654.

Tipping culture
10 per cent is the norm in bars and restaurants; hotel staff and taxi drives will appreciate a few discretionary coins.

Siesta and Fiesta
As with much of southern Spain, most businesses wind down at around 2pm, (when most Granadans have lunch) before reopening from 4pm until 7 or 8pm. Banks close at 2pm. No one thinks about dinner until after 9pm, and the bars and clubs don’t fill up until 11pm, keeping the cerveza flowing until the wee hours.

Packing tips
Bikinis and swimming shorts – although you’re a couple of hours from the coast, you shouldn’t go home without a visit to a hammam baths.

Recommended reads
Tales of the Alhambra by Washington Irving is a collection of short stories by the 19th-century star of the American literary scene. Salman Rushdie'sThe Moor's Last Sighmay be set mainly in Mumbai, but takes its title from the story of Granada's last sultan and frequently refers to Alhambra. For a lively look at Andalucian history, try Jason Webster’s Andalus: Unlocking the Secrets of Moorish Spain.

Cuisine
Granada’s location between the mountains and the Mediterranean is reflected in its cuisine, with classic Andalucian dishes combining fresh seafood and upland specialities such as sausages or ham. The city’s Moorish past can still be tasted in an assortment of spiced and honeyed creations, and the culinary influence of Moroccan immigrants has made mint tea and sweet pistachio pastries tea-time staples. Look out for jamon de Trevelez, a snow-cured ham from a Sierra Nevadan mountain village and the ‘challenging’ local speciality tortilla Sacromonte – an omelette made with brain and testicles.

Currency
Euro.

Time zone
GMT +1

Dialling codes
+34 for Spain; 958 for Granada.

Do go/don't go
Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit as the climate and crowds are less intense. During July and August temperatures can reach 40˚C and it has been known to snow in the city during the winter.

Don't go home without

…a handmade Spanish guitar – there are numerous instrument makers working in the city and their guitars are among the best in the world.


Granada Hotels

£ $

Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Granada


Hospes Palacio de los Patos

Granada, Spain

Style
Whims ancient and modern

Setting
Shopping streets of downtown Granada

The Hospes group’s 21st-century take on the 19th-century Palacio de los Patos has created a boutique hotel in Granada that – like the city itself – offers visitors the comforts of the present without forgetting the grandeur of the past.

Book now



Getting there

City breaks in Granada, Spain

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

Planes
Ryanair fly direct from London Stansted and East Midlands Airport to Granada-Jaén airport, just 17 kilometres outside the city, near the small town of Santa Fe. Internal flights to and from Madrid and Barcelona also operate regularly. Malaga airport, an hour or so from the city, carries many more international flights.
Trains
There are no high speed lines connecting Granada’s central station with other Spanish cities – it can take over five hours to get to Madrid.
Automobiles
Narrow-streeted Granada is not a motorist-friendly city and certain areas are closed to all vehicles other than taxis and buses. If you do come by road, find a secure car park to stash your vehicle.

Boutique hotels in Granada

City breaks in Granada, Spain

Granada Activities

Highlights the best Granada has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

Worth getting out of bed for

Granada itinerary
More…

Viewpoint
As evening approaches, head to the the Mirador de San Nicolas, a small square in Albayzín, where you can watch the walls of Alhambra grow pink as the sun sets and enjoy magical panoramas of the city and the Sierra Nevada. Musical accompaniment is provided by gypsy guitarists singing traditional songs, and there’s always a convivial fiesta atmosphere.

Arts and culture
One of the finest examples of mediaeval Moorish architecture in southern Spain, it’s easy to lose a day marvelling at Alhambra (www.alhambra.org). The richly decorated throne rooms with intricate plasterwork, courtyards filled with fountains and pools and secluded gardens and towers overlooking the city form an architectural masterpiece that have lost none of their power to charm after 700 years. Even if you’re unable to secure tickets for the Nasrid palaces (visitor slots get booked up weeks in advance), it’s still worth a visit to explore the magnificent grounds and the summer palace.

Something for nothing
Stop to listen to the buskers and performers on Oficios outside the Capilla Real near the cathedral. Be warned: the women handing out rosemary sprigs aren’t doing so out of the kindness of their hearts – a polite ‘no quiero’ should save you from having your (increasingly expensive) fortune told.

Shopping
The alley-riddled Arab and Jewish quarters of Alcaicería – the former site of the city’s silk bazaar is the place to go for traditional Andalucian jewellery and ceramics. Reez (+34 958 220642), on Placeta Albaida in Albayzín, is a tiny designer-jeweller nook that’s worth a peep. Tauriq (+34 958 291057) on San Jerónimo houses a collection of arts and antiquities from Spain, Morocco, Ethiopia and China. Another antiqueish place, Antiguedades Arte Reyes (+34 958 293487) on Calle Elvira sells an assortment of local pieces, including glassware, architectural salvage and furniture.

Daytripper
Hire a car and head west to the pretty little white village of Loja, about 45km from Granada, and visit Alcazaba, a Moorish fortress from the 9th century, and the 16th-century San Gabriel church. A few kilometres outside town on the Rio Genil you’ll find Los Infiernos, a series of impressive waterfalls, set within a protected area of outstanding natural beauty. For lunch, head to the award-winning, creative La Finca restaurant at the Hotel La Bobadilla. (+34 958 321861).

Best beach
Head to Cabopino near Malaga, around two-hour’s drive from Granada, a largely undeveloped stretch of sand with plenty of seafood restaurants.

Perfect picnic
You’ll need a ticket to enter, but the gardens of the Generalife in Alhambra, filled with roses and fountains, are full of hidden places to sit and enjoy a picnic lunch. J. Mariscal on Acera del Casino is a top-notch deli selling fabulous local jamon, cheeses, breads and everything else you’d need for an alfresco lunch.

Walks
Starting at the Plaza de Bib-Rambla, stroll to the Plaza Pasiegas and bear to the right of the imposing cathedral, stopping at the Capilla Real to peek in at the royal tombs of Ferdinand and Isabel. Then, cross over the Gran via de Colon and walk up Carcel Baja which to Caldereria Nueva, filled with Moroccan teashops and boutiques. From here head west onto the Plaza Nueva and follow it north along the Carrera del Darro. Stop in at the 11th-century baths along the way. Once you reach the bridge at the end cross over and follow the path, known as the Cuesta de los Chinos, up to Alhambra. You can linger for lunch in the courtyard of the Parador de San Francisco (+34 958 221440).

Children
Hilly, cobbled Granada isn’t exactly an ideal destination to visit en famille, but older kids will enjoy a visit to one of the city’s many guitar makers. (Try Antonio Marín Montero on Cuesta del Caidero, +34 958 228977). Alternatively, take a private flamenco lesson with Carmen de las Cuevas school on Cuesta de los Chinos (+ 34 958 221062). Sierra Essences (www.sierranevada.co.uk) offers extreme-sporty activities such as canyon descents and underground swims in the nearby mountains to over-10s

Activities
The nearby mountains of the Sierra Nevada (www.sierranevada.co.uk) offer ample opportunities for trekking, climbing, biking, skiing and snowboarding. If that all sounds like too much effort, thee new Mediterranean Cooking School in Albaycín offers food-market tours, cooking lessons and classes in wine and cheese appreciation (+34 958 201557; www.alhambratravel.com). More relaxing still, a trip to the hammam or Baños Arabes that have sprung up in the city (+34 958 229978; www.hammamspain.com). Entry gets you two hours of wallowing in pools heated to various temperatures and the option of a short massage – a rejuvenating antidote to a long day’s sightseeing.

Diary

2 January  Street parades and cultural events mark the anniversary of the Catholic conquest of  Granada in 1492. February Carnival comes to Granada.  May The Rocket Festival – head to the village of Alahama de Granada for four days of music and DJs in the Andalucian sunshine (www.rocketfestival.com). September The last Sunday of the month is devoted to Granada’s patron, the Virgen de las Angustias and the festival brings  processions, floral offerings, bullfights and dancing to the city.


Boutique hotels in Granada

City breaks in Granada, Spain

Granada
Eating, drinking and dancing

We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Granada.

Cafés

(+34 958 221205)

Lopez-Mezquita Café

This small rustic-looking pastelria on one of the city’s main thoroughfares has made a name for itself thanks its pastries.

39 Calle Reyes Católicos, Granada 18001, Spain

(+34 958 227936)

Kasbah

A Moroccan-style teashop serving super-sweet mint teas, pistachio and almond pastries and hookah pipes with fruit-flavoured tobaccos. If you’re lucky, you might catch a belly dancer performing.

4 Calle Calderería Nueva, Granada 18010, Spain

Restaurants

(+34 958 128335)

Los Santanderinos

Unassumingly located, but an essential foodie stop-off, this incredible restaurant serves artfully prepared Andalucian cuisine to an ever-packed formal dining room. There’s a tapas bar by the entrance too.

1 Calle Albahaca, Granada 18006, Spain

(+34 958 221440)

Parador de San Francisco

Located within the Alhambra walls, and boasting wonderful views of the gardens, this hotel restaurant serves classic local dishes in the pretty courtyard of what was once a mosque.

Calle Real de la Alhambra, Granada 18009, Spain

(+34 958 535790)

Senzone

International, but with a firm not to Andalucian culinary tradition, the cuisine at the Hospes Palacio de los Patos hotel’s minimalist restaurant is exquisitely prepared and presented with artistry.

1 Calle de Solarillo de Gracia, Granada 18002, Spain

(+34 958 223222)

Bodega Castaneda

This attractive, bustling little tavern is one of the most popular tapas bars in the city and a great place to try the local jamón de Trevelez.

1–3 Calle Almireceros, Granada 18010, Spain

Om Khalsum

Unusually, this popular bar serves tapas with a North African twist – the chef can do impressive things with chickpeas.

17 Calle Jardines, Granada 18002, Spain

(+34 958 223847)

Pilar del Toro

Housed in a 19th-century home, this popular tapas bar and restaurant is more comfortable than most, with a sheltered hacienda-style patio and excellent food.

12 Calle Hospital de Santa Ana, Granada 18009, Spain

Bars and clubs

(+34 958 227759)

Copas la Fontana

A large, labyrinthine late-night bar on one of Granada’s most nightlife-friendly thoroughfares, this ochre-hued party hive mixes some excellent, reasonably priced cocktails.

19 Carrera del Darro, Granada 18010, Spain

(+34 958 228088)

El Príncipe

Once a grain warehouse, now one of the city’s most vibrant nightspots, El Príncipe maintains on upmarket policy on both dress and music, with high timbered ceilings and a house/electronica playlist. There’s tapas available into the small hours.

Calle Campo del Príncipe, Granada 18009, Spain



©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith