For more information and to book please visit www.mrandmrssmith.com or let us arrange your whole trip, by calling +44 (0)20 8987 4312 or from the USA dial 1 866 610 3867.
Between Girona and the Mediterranean, in the southern shadow of the Pyrenees, lies Empordà – split into Alt (higher) and Baixa (lower) Empordà – a rolling countryscape in north-east Catalonia of vine- and sheep-dotted hillsides topped with mediaeval hamlets tickled by the Tramontane wind. Whether it’s the region’s rich history, the surfeit of superb Catalan restaurants (El Celler de Can Roca, El Bulli) or the gaggle of golf courses that draw you here, you’ll find yourself stylishly tucked away from the crowds on the Costa Brava, yet near enough when you fancy a jaunt to its sandy coves and cobalt waters.
The Dalí Triangle: it might sound like somewhere folk disappear mysteriously never to be seen again, but in fact it’s Empordà’s trio of attractions dedicated to the Catalan surrealist. Púbol Castle in La Pera was Dalí’s present to his wife Gala and is also where she’s buried. The House-Museum in Port Lligat is a set of fishing huts that Dalí converted into a workshop. In his birthplace, Figueres, is the painting- and installation-packed Theatre-Museum.
…some dried botifarra and a dresser’s-worth of rustic ceramics from La Bisbal.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Empordà
Take two 18th-century Catalan farmhouses in a mediaeval village, merge and renovate the result, add in soft lighting, fresh flowers, countryside views and a restaurant built in an old theatre and, congratulations, you’ve conjured up Hotel del Teatre.
Sandwiched splendidly between the Pyrenees peaks and the Costa Brava’s cliffs and coves, Castell d’Empordà is a Catalan ruin turned romantic retreat.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
April Castell d’Empordà [link to review] hosts a jazz festival for 12 weeks. May Girona hosts a Festival of Flowers (www.gironatempsdeflors.net) with displays around the city that it’s hard to believe are made from blooms. July Experience sardana dancing and cobla bands in Torroella de Montgrí and Palamós. July and August Castillo de Peralada hosts an international music festival with balletic, operatic and orchestral performances in the grounds (www.festivalperalada.com). 11 September The annual regional festival Diada de Catalunya: expect fireworks, sardines (the fish, not the game) and celebrations across the region.
Señor Sans trained in Paris at hallowed pastry den Fauchon and now works wonders at the family patisserie, where the must-buy is Bisbalenc, a puff pastry cone filled with sweet angel hair.
4 Avenida les Voltes, 17100 La Bisbal, Spain
Stop here for mid-morning coffee surrounded by art-adorned walls in the shade.
9 Plaça de les Voltes, 17113 Peratallada, Spain
If you want to dine at this legendary Michelin-adored restaurant, we do hope you’re not hungry… It has a tendency to get booked up way in advance, but optimists should ring with 10 days’ notice to see which if any fools have cancelled their Wonka golden ticket of a reservation (Mr & Mrs Smith members should phone us to see if we can’t work some magic on your behalf).
30 Cala Montjoi, 17480 Roses, Spain
Enjoy regional fare, such as confit of duck with orange moscatel sauce and gratin potatoes, at a harbourside table at this super-sleek bistro, north of La Bisbal.
Port de Roses, 17480 Roses, Spain
Linger over portrait-worthy seafood and fish dishes in this elegant 18th-century stone house or on the spacious outdoor terrace.
Carratera de Madremaya, 17462 Sant Martí Vell, Spain
This Michelin-starred family affair makes for a world-class treat at the end of your trip. A traditional stone villa houses a clean-lined interior with a Scandinavian feel, where Roca brothers Joan, Josep and Jordi mastermind technically brilliant reinventions of Catalan classics, such as turbot with goat’s milk or braised cod with spinach.
48 Can Sunyer, 17007 Girona, Spain
Perched prettily by the beach in Sa Tuna, this small restaurant is famed for its irresistible rice dishes and romantic situation.
Platja Sa Tuna, 17255 Begur, Spain
Feast on traditional Catalan cuisine at this former family home. This restaurant is full of local character (and characters) and snails – apparently they serve up to 26,000 a week.
4 Plaça de la Mota, 17256 Palau-Sator , Spain
Sample seasonal Catalan cuisine including dishes such as slow-cooked local lamb or lobster with rice in a romantic setting on the lantern-lit terrace at this hotel restaurant.
2 Carretera de la Preso, 17114 Ullastret, Spain
Built inside an old Catalan country house with vaulted stone ceilings and terracotta-tiled floors, La Plaça has a tranquil vine-covered, jasmine-scented terrace where you can enjoy nouvelle cuisine-style Catalan dishes.
17 Sant Esteve, Madremanya, Spain
A warm welcome and a glass of rosé await at this kitschly styled restaurant, which manages to combine excellent service with a relaxed atmosphere and generous portions of seasonal Catalan cuisine such as diced beef with pork and duck stuffed with strawberries.
9 Major, 17113 Peratallada, Spain
A huge outdoor terrace shaded by mature walnut trees gives way to a stone-walled dining room, where the simple, rustic decor lets the hearty Catalan fare and tremendous desserts do the talking.
13 Carretera La Roca, 17113 Peratallada, Spain
In a seaside village of postcard-pretty whitewashed houses, Tragamar’s beachfront terrace would need armbands if it were any nearer the sea. Perfect for a sunny lunch or romantic soirée, it serves fabulous seafood.
Calle Platja Canadell, 17210 Calella de Palafrugell, Spain
For beers in bohemia, head to this open field drinking-hole, which hosts regular live jazz performances and has a covered outdoor bar, pool tables and a caravan selling crêpes. Inside is a pretty candle-lit restaurant (Menjazz) and the bar stays open until around 6am in summer.
Km 0.5, Gi-643, 17257 Gualta, Spain
This clifftop Begur venue has a terrace bar where you can sit and watch the waves crash on the rocks 200m below – perfect for post-beach sundowners.
Platja D’Aiguablava, 17255 Begur
Cool artwork on the walls and a softly sultry soundtrack make the white stools next to the scarlet bar in this cool and contemporary den as inviting as the pavement-side tables.
Platja de Sa Riera, 17255 Begur, Spain
©2010 Mr & Mrs Smith
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