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Discover Alfama’s medieval Moorish charm, Baixa’s bustle and chic Chiado; every district boasts character, calm and cool in abundance. By night, head to Bairro Alto, where the bars and restaurants throb with the mournful passion of Fado, Portugal’s traditional music.
The longing, lingering laments of Fado are one of Portugal’s most iconic cultural curiosities. The word Fado means ‘fate’; the genre’s exact origins are unknown; some say it’s a legacy of the Moorish occupation, others believe it evolved from Portuguese sailors, singing wistfully of home during long absences on the oceans. In Lisbon, Fado is performed by solo singers, and the best bars and restaurants can be found in Bairro Alto and Alfama. Try Senhor Vinho (+351 213 972 681) on Rua do Meio à Lapa for an authentic experience. It’s owned by one of Portugal’s top Fado stars, Maria da Fé, several singers perform during the course of the evening and the food is fantastic.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Lisbon
Perched atop a heavenly hill, Chiado 16 is luxury guesthouse in the chic Chiado district of Lisbon. The quarter’s shops, cafes and cultural curiosities are a stroll away, but with Heleen, the owner, on hand to pamper and pander, you may be loth to leave.
The award-winning Heritage Av Liberdade hotel, situated in a restored 18th-century Lisbon townhouse, is a picture-perfect powder-blue confection. It blends traditional Portuguese charm with laid-back luxe.
A hotel with history in the perfect Lisbon location, Hotel Britania is just off the beautiful Avenida da Liberdade. Expect modernism and luxury with art deco flair. It’s even home to a lovingly preserved barbershop.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
February Lisbon Carnival hits the city with a fiesta to rival that of Rio de Janeiro. March Moda Lisboa, Lisbon Fashion Week, brings a splash of style to the Portuguese capital, and returns again in October. April At Lisbon’s Independent Film Festival, Indie Lisboa, hundreds of international movies are screened. It’s one of the city’s most popular cultural events. May The world’s biggest musical entertainment event, Rock in Rio – Lisboa, moved from Rio de Janeiro to Lisbon in 2004. It takes place in Bela Vista Park every two years. June Festas de Lisboa involves street parties, Fado, grilled sardines and alcohol. September ExperimentaDesign is a biannual international event dedicated to design, architecture and contemporary culture.
This pastry shop in Baixa, which opened in 1829, belonged to the same family for five generations, and claims to be responsible for bringing the King’s Cake (Bolo Rei) to Portugal. It offers sweet treats served up in historic surrounds.
Praca da Figueira 18B, 1100 – 241
No trip to the Portuguese capital is complete without visiting Café a Brasileira, a hangout that’s to Lisbon what Café de Flores is to Paris. Twentieth-century poet Fernando Pessoa nurtured (or should that be destroyed?) his creativity with lashings of absinthe here, and he’s been immortalised in a statue outside the café. Today’s crowd is a lively mix of young and old; expect a hubbub of conversation and a warm, friendly atmosphere. The café’s mirrored walls and wooden booths ensure comfortably stylish people-watching.
Serving up delicious food at equally tasty prices, this café is a must-visit. Delicacies include shrimp crêpes, English-style roast beef and chicken liver. As well as the meat and fish mains, omelettes, salads, and desserts aplenty, Café no Chiado has daily specials, making choosing that bit more tricky.
Largo do Picadeiro, 10-12, Mártires, 1200-330
This famous pastry shop and café is the place to come for the city’s best custard tarts. These sugary treats are best eaten warm, but if you want to take some home with you, they’ll be tidied away into a prettily packaged tube with sachets of sugar and cinnamon. There are seats if you want to linger, but you may have to fight over them with the locals.
Rua de Belém 84-92
1300-085
This really is a dazzlingly chic restaurant, with white walls and white-linen-spread tables crisply offset by sleek black and citrus-green chairs. The minimalist decor complements a wow-factor menu, bursting with unexpected flavours and combinations. Young Portuguese chef Alexandre Silva comes with some serious credentials, having worked at top Lisbon hotels including Tivoli, Lisboa Plaza and Bica do Sapato. His inventive approach results in a dazzling menu: starters of monkfish and chocolate or foie gras, mango and ‘Ginja de Óbidos’, mains such as tiger shrimp and seaweed, and Muscovy duck, figs and strawberries. Linger over the wine list; there’s more than 60 tipples to choose from.
Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca 87, 1250 São Mamede
Eat at Michelin-starred Eleven and enjoy fine dining in seductive, sensual surrounds. Set on a hill above Parque Eduoardo VII, next to the Amália Rodrigues Gardens, the restaurant boasts stunning views over Lisbon and the river Tagus. Unsurprisingly, chef Joachim Koerper’s seasonal menu is equally jaw-dropping; start with a saffron ‘risotto’ of scallops in a Mediterranean crust, and move on to crossed Challands duck with baby pumpkins. There’s also a tantalising tasting menu to explore.
www.restauranteleven.com
As theatrical and unique as its owner John Malkovich, Lux Club is also the city’s most famous nightspot, regularly drawing in Lisbon’s beautiful, stylish set. Situated in a former warehouse right by the harbour, it boasts serious city-chic glamour with a myriad of interconnected rooms, impressive DJ sets, unusual sofas and furnishings, and a seductive, sociable atmosphere.
Avenida Infante D Henrique Santa Apolonia
Sitting pretty on the upper two floors of Espaço Chiado, Silk Club is a glamorous and exclusive venue, boasting spectacular rooftop views over Lisbon. The design is minimalist and modern, with an innovative use of light. The main bar is on the second floor, but follow the beautiful people, who parade the terrace and outside bar in all their peacock-perfection.
Rua da Misericórdia 14, 6th Floor, 1200-273
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